Help Wiki - User contributions [en]

Requesting a former student account

2025-09-10T22:23:34Z

Cornelle: .

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After you leave The Evergreen State College, your student account will remain active for up to one year to provide access to my.evergreen resources.
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====How do I request a Former Student account?====
*GO TO: [[Former Student Accounts]]


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Requesting a former student account

2025-09-10T22:22:48Z

Cornelle: .

<div class="container-fluid"><div class="row">
GO TO: [[Former Student Accounts]]<div class="col-md-8">
<div class="lead">
After you leave The Evergreen State College, your student account will remain active for up to one year to provide access to my.evergreen resources.
</div>

====How do I request a Former Student account?====
If you no longer have access to your student account, you can request a former student account:
*Visit the [http://www.evergreen.edu/registration/transcript.htm transcript information] page to learn more about requesting a former student account.
*Click on [https://my.evergreen.edu/public/user_request request a former student account] link
*Contact Registration and Records if you have any questions about this account. registration@evergreen.edu or 360-867-6180


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Requesting a former student account

2025-09-10T22:21:53Z

Cornelle: .

#REDIRECT [[[Former Student Accounts|Student Accounts]]]
<div class="container-fluid"><div class="row">
<div class="col-md-8">
<div class="lead">
After you leave The Evergreen State College, your student account will remain active for up to one year to provide access to my.evergreen resources.
</div>

====How do I request a Former Student account?====
If you no longer have access to your student account, you can request a former student account:
*Visit the [http://www.evergreen.edu/registration/transcript.htm transcript information] page to learn more about requesting a former student account.
*Click on [https://my.evergreen.edu/public/user_request request a former student account] link
*Contact Registration and Records if you have any questions about this account. registration@evergreen.edu or 360-867-6180


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{{GetHelp}}


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Requesting a former student account

2025-09-10T22:20:26Z

Cornelle: Redirected old wiki to the updated Former Student Account Wiki page.

#REDIRECT [[https://helpwiki.evergreen.edu/wiki/index.php/Former Student Accounts]]
<div class="container-fluid">
<div class="row">
<div class="col-md-8">
<div class="lead">
After you leave The Evergreen State College, your student account will remain active for up to one year to provide access to my.evergreen resources.
</div>

====How do I request a Former Student account?====
If you no longer have access to your student account, you can request a former student account:
*Visit the [http://www.evergreen.edu/registration/transcript.htm transcript information] page to learn more about requesting a former student account.
*Click on [https://my.evergreen.edu/public/user_request request a former student account] link
*Contact Registration and Records if you have any questions about this account. registration@evergreen.edu or 360-867-6180


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{{Having Trouble Logging In}}
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[[Category:Evergreen Account]]

Zoom H4n Audio Recorder Proficiency Test

2019-04-02T19:38:03Z

Cornelle: /* Written Test */

===Zoom H4N===
'''Proficiency Questions'''
===='''Written Test'''====
Complete this written portion on a separate sheet of paper before arriving for your operational proficiency. The answers can be found in the operating guides for the '''[[Zoom H4n Audio Recorder Operating Guide|Zoom H4N]]'''.<br />
# What is the point of formatting the recorder before you record audio?
# Why is it not unnecessary to turn off the internal mic for input?
# What are the steps you must follow in order to import your files onto a computer for editing for both recorders?
# Describe how to set the date and time on the H4n.
# Name and describe the 4 modes on the H4n.
# What kind of mic configuration does the H4n utilize?
# What is the extent of your financial responsibility for the recorders when you check them out from Media Loan?
====Operational Proficiency====
(TO BE DONE DURING YOUR SCHEDULED APPOINTMENT )
* Turn recorder on.
* Demonstrate how to navigate through the menus of the recorder.
* Format the recorder correctly and prepare for recording.
* Demonstrate how to change the mic angels from 90 to 120 and back on the H4n.
* Plug preferred mic to correct input. Select input setup from the menu.
* Record 30 seconds of audio.
* Connect headphones or speakers to line-out and playback your track.
* Add another track manually.
* Erase track.
* Connect USB from the recorder to a laptop provided by Media Loan.
* Show that you understand how to import your audio files from the recorder to the computer.
[[category:Media Loan]]

Medium Format Cameras Gear Guide

2019-01-14T22:37:42Z

Cornelle:

[[File:MediumFormat-top-large.jpg|centre|800x800px]]
'''A proficiency test is required to check out these cameras.''' Schedule a proficiency at the front desk of Media Loan or by calling 360-867-6253. Read this operating guide and complete the written portion of the [[Medium Format Cameras Proficiency Test]] prior to your scheduled proficiency. (You must already be proficient in the 35mm manual camera before obtaining this proficiency.) Bring your answer sheet with you to the test, which should take approximately 30 - 45 minutes.

=== Introduction to Medium Format ===

==== Medium Format vs. 35mm ====
This is an instructional guide to the medium format film
cameras available at Media Loan. It will cover a brief introduction to medium
format photography and then go through the operating steps for each of our
models.

When talking about film photography, there are three main
types of film, or formats: 35mm, medium format, and large format. With medium
and large format, the frame size on the film is much larger than 35mm film and yields significantly more detail and the ability to be printed at very large sizes. In essence, it
is a question of quality. The size and shape of the actual frame is variable
depending on the camera (whether your picture is a square, rectangle, skinny
rectangle, etc.) The size of the frame is often indicated in the name of the
camera, like the Pentax 6x7 whose frame dimensions are 6cm by 7cm. With 35mm
photography the size of the frame is always 35mm across regardless of the
camera used.

Medium format film comes wrapped around a plastic spool with
light-safe black paper layered around the film itself. There is no metal
canister like with 35mm film. Additionally, when there are no more exposures
left on the roll, medium format film is not rewound back on to the spool but is
transferred to another take-up spool on the other side of the camera.

There are two types of medium format film, 120 and 220. The
film is exactly the same except that 220 film contains twice the amount of
exposures as 120. However, most medium format cameras can shoot only one or the
other. The Pentax 6x7 and the Mamiya cameras have the ability to shoot both but the camera needs to be adjusted
to the right setting prior to loading the film. 120 film is the most common and
allows for 10-12 exposures depending on the camera’s aspect ratio. Keep in mind that the Photo Store and many other stores do not process 220 film.

==== Tools Required ====
In order to shoot on a medium format camera, you will need some
accessories. Some are optional while others are not. The essentials include an
'''empty film spool''' that your exposed film will be transferred on to (there should
already be one in the camera from the previous user. If there isn’t ask a Media
Loan staff member to give you one.) You will also need a '''light meter''' as most of our medium
format cameras do not have built in meters.

Refer
to [http://helpwiki.evergreen.edu/wiki/index.php/Light_Meters_Quick_Guide Media Loan’s operating guide for light meters] to find out how to use what
might be called your medium format camera’s best friend.

Other accessories include tripods, cable releases, and
flashes. If using a flash, remember to also pick up a flash sync cable.

==== Precautions ====
These cameras are old, expensive, and used by many students. Please give them the respect they deserve. Before handling a camera, be
aware of what can potentially damage it and what improper usage looks like.

Some general rules for these cameras are:

·
Do not expose them to water or moisture. They
are not weather proof.

·
Do not leave in excessive heat, like in a car.

·
Do not leave in excessive cold, like the
freezer.

·
Do not try to force any mechanism on the camera.
You’re probably doing it wrong if it feels like a lot of force.

·
Do not remove the prism viewfinder or the lens. This will
get dust inside the camera.

·
'''NEVER LEAVE ANYTHING FROM MEDIA LOAN IN YOUR'''
CAR!

·
As with all Media Loan equipment, you are 100% financially
responsibly for any damage and repairs done to the camera.
[[File:Pentax-top.jpg|thumb|Pentax 6x7]][[File:Pentax film type.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Film type dial]]
=== Pentax 6X7 ===
The Pentax 6x7 is perhaps the easiest to use of
all our medium format cameras as it most resembles the shape and operation
of a 35mm camera. It is a single lens reflex (SLR) camera meaning that what you see
through the viewfinder is the actual image that will appear on the film. This
camera can shoot both 120 and 220 film. You will not be able to release the
shutter until there is film loaded
==== Before Loading Film ====
[[File:IMG 3315.JPG|thumb|150x150px|left|Handle screw]]
Firstly, be sure that the wooden handle grip is screwed on tight. All of the camera’s weight rests on this handle.

Then you need to set
the film type you are working with, either 120 or 220. There are two places
that need to be adjusted for this. If you’re holding the camera like you would
to shoot, the first is on the right side of the camera. [[File:Pentax Pressure Plate.jpg|thumb|150x150px|left|Pressure plate film type]]There is a dial that
[[File:Pentax locks.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Spool dial locks]]
[[File:Pentax wrong.jpg|150x150px|thumb|Incorrect film direction]]
lets your choose between the two. You will need a quarter or a strong finger
nail to move it. The second adjustment is found on the inside of the camera.
Open the camera by pulling down on the silver release on the bottom left side
of the camera. Notice the black speckled pressure plate on the door. Following
the direction of the arrows there, gently push the pressure plate down and to
the side that corresponds to your film type.

==== Loading Film ====
[[File:Pentax back cover.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Cover release latch]]
It is best to do this while sitting as these cameras do not come with neck straps. First, open the back of
the camera if it is not already open from the previous step. On the bottom of
the camera are two silver dials that hold the film spools in place. Fold out their handles and turn these
counter-clockwise and pull them up until the stay put.
Make sure your empty take-up spool is on the right side. If there is
no spool in the camera, ask a Media Loan or Photoland staff to give you one.
(It is common medium format etiquette to leave your old spool in the camera
when you’re done using it as it is not needed for developing.) [[File:Pentax correct.jpg|150x150px|thumb|Correct film direction]]Like with 35mm film, the Pentax 6x7 needs to be loaded
in a “up and over” style and not “down and under.”
After you’ve aligned the cross in the top of the film spool
with the notch in the camera, close the silver dials on the bottom of the
camera. Now pull the film across to the right side of the camera and thread the
film into the take-up spool just as you would with 35mm film. Use the crank lever to advance the film
and stop when the arrows on the film paper line up with the arrow on the inside
of the camera.

Close the back of the camera and advance the
film until “0” is line up with the red dot in the frame counter.

==== Exposing, Focusing, & Taking a Picture ====
The '''shutter speed''' is set by the dial on the top left side
of the camera. The current setting is indicated by whatever number is next to the
small red LED just to the right of the dial. Since there is no built in light
meter on this camera, there is no need to set the '''ISO''' for whatever film you are
using.

If using a flash, you must use a shutter speed on this
camera of 1/30<sup>th</sup> of slower.

If you wish to do a timed exposure longer than one second
and you don’t want to keep you finger on the shutter as the “Bulb”
setting would allow, rotate the shutter speed dial to anywhere between the red “X” and “1000.”
Now, releasing the shutter will keep it open until you rotate the shutter speed
dial back to “X”.

The '''aperture''' ring is located on the lens. This is the ring
closest to the body of the camera and ranges from f/2.4 to f/22. The aperture
ring will be your primary tool for exposing. Also located on the lens is an
aperture preview mechanism. This allows you get see your depth of field before
actually taking a picture. You can lock this switch in "AUTO" mode so
that you will always be previewing your aperture. To do this, slide the switch
to "AUTO" and push down. To release it back to manual, push down on the other side of
the switch.

To focus, simply look through the viewfinder and adjust the
focus ring until the split viewfinder is even and the image looks crisp.

To release the shutter and take a picture, first crank the film advance level with your right thumb and smoothly and firmly depress the silver button next to the crank.

A cable release can be attached by screwing one into the shutter release button just as with Media Loan's 35mm Pentax K-1000 cameras.

The Pentax 6x7 can not take multiple exposure pictures.

==== Unloading Film ====

Once all of the frames are exposed you’ll want to unload
your film. When you’re ready to do this, wind the crank a few more times until
there is no more tension in the crank lever. By now the protective light-safe
paper should be covering the film and totally wrapped around the spool.
Unfasten the silver dials just like when loading film. Keeping a firm grip on the film so that it doesn't unroll,
lick or peel off the sticky tape on the roll and make sure it is securely attached to the
spool. Close everything back up.

==== Using a Flash ====
To use a flash with the Pentax 6x7, first attach the flash to the hot shoe mount on the handle. This camera has options for both X-type sync cables and FP-type sync cables. Use only the X-type as plugging an X cable into an FP housing can cause damage. Again, this camera can only use a flash when the shutter speed is set to 1/30th of a second or slower.
[[File:Bronica-top2.jpg|thumb|356x356px|Bronica SQ-B]]

=== Bronica ETRS, ETRSI, & SQ-B ===

There are three different models of the Bronica available at Media Loan: SB-Q, ETRS, and ETRSi. They are very similar in operation except for a few minor things like button placement and the viewfinders and accessories that come with each camera. The aspect ratio that these cameras shoot at is also different.
* The ETRS and ETRSi have prism viewfinders and are in a 6x6 (square) format.

* The SB-Q (aka 645) has a wast-level view finder and is in a 6x4.5 (rectangle) format.

The Bronica begins to feel like a departure from the 35mm cameras. It is essentially a cube with a lens attached. One notices a very different feel when shooting with a Bronica than with the Pentax 6x7. Since a lot of the controls are not in conventional places, it may take some time to get acquainted with this camera. All of the Bronica cameras can only use 120 film.
[[File:Cartridge doors.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Film cartridge doors]]
[[File:Bronica cartridge release.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Cartridge release latches]]
[[File:Bronica cartridge.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|The film cartridge ]]

==== Loading Film ====
To load film, open the back of the camera by pinching the buttons that lie just under the viewfinder that are indicated by arrows. It is spring loaded and the film cartridge may fall out so be prepared. The outer shell will fold down and then the film cartridge can be removed.
In the Bronica, film moves from top to bottom. This means your new roll of film will be on top and your empty spool on bottom Now that you're holding the film cartridge, notice there are two door flaps on the left side. Using your finger, push them open from the inside out. You will now be able to remove or insert film spools into each slot. Make sure the empty spool is on bottom and the fresh film is on top. Now you will take the film leader and run it over the pressure plate on the opposite side, bringing it down and around to the empty take up spool. A proper loading will have the black side of the paper leader facing outwards over the pressure plate. [[File:Bronica-Loading.gif|150x150px|thumb|Film direction]]Now, using the manual film advance wheel located on the right side of the cartridge, advance the film until the arrow on the leader aligns with the red arrow on the inside left of the cartridge.

To close the camera, the cartridge must first be aligned properly on the camera body, not inserted into the door. Once the cartridge is in place, close the door. It can be a little tricky to get it perfectly aligned. Do not force anything. If the door won't shut, take the cartridge out and try again.

Now wind the film advance lever until it stops moving and the frame counter is at 0.
[[File:Bronica viewfinder.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Waist-level viewfinder]]

==== Waist-level Viewfinder ====
[[File:Bronica magnifier.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Magnifier latch]]
[[File:Bronica magnifier2.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Magnifier]]Many of Media Loan's Bronicas, like the Mamiyas, feature waist-level viewfinders. This is different than a prism viewfinder in which the viewfinder is held up to the eye. Alternatively, waist-level viewfinders are held at the waist and have a "screen" and magnifier for focusing. Most waist-level viewfinders open by simply folding up the top of the camera. Sometimes there is a small latch. There are metal walls that will snap into place once it is open.
To open the magnifier for critical focusing, there is another release latch on the inside of the focusing hood. To close the magnifier, simply move it back into place with your finger, trying not to touch the actual glass.

Some of the Bronicas come with prism viewfinders, which you can ask for. Some of the prism viewfinders are electronic and feature an internal light meter.
==== Exposing, Focusing, & Taking a Picture ====
[[File:Bronica shutter speed.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Shutter speed dial]]
[[File:Bronica shutter.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Shutter release button]]
To set the '''shutter speed''', there is a dial on the right side of the camera body. The Bronica has a range of shutter speeds from 1/500th of a second to 8 seconds.

The '''aperture''' is set by twisting the aperture ring on the lens and has a range of f/2.4 to f/22.

If you are using a Bronica with a built in light meter, set the '''ISO''' to match your film speed by twisting the dial on the left of the viewfinder. If it does not have an internal light meter, you do not have to worry about setting your ISO.

To focus, open the magnifier in the focusing hood as described in the previous section. The Bronica's lens functions conveniently like most other camera lenses. Twist the focus ring until your subject comes into focus.

Before '''taking a picture''', the film must be advanced. Do this by winding the crank on the right side of the camera. When there is no film loaded in the camera, the crank will spin indefinitely. Once film has been loaded, the crank will stop itself in the correct position.

The shutter release button is a black button located on the front of the camera in the bottom left corner. You can attach a cable release by screwing one into the cable release hole on the left side of the camera.

It is preferable to take a picture in the steps in order to ensure a focused picture:
# Advance the film
# Set your shutter speed and aperture according to your light meter
# Focus on your subject
# Depress the shutter release button
[[File:Bronca flash plug.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Flash plug]]

==== Using a Flash ====
A flash can be connected using an X-type sync cable. The port for this flash is located on the front side of the camera in the top right corner. When plugging and unplugging a sync cable, always pull gently and straight out. Never use a twisting motion to get it out.

The Bronica can conveniently sync with flash at any shutter speed, even at its fastest of 1/500th of a second.
[[File:Bronica handles.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Mirror lock-up & multiple exposure knobs]]

==== Multiple Exposure ====
The Bronica cameras can take multiple exposures, exposing a single frame an unlimited number of times.

To do this, first wind the crank to advance the film. There is a small lever next to the crank that needs to be rotated clockwise. A red warning indicator will appear in the viewfinder letting you know that the multiple exposure mode is engaged, however it is always wise to double check that this lever is in the left or counter-clockwise position (single exposure mode) prior to shooting. When the multiple exposure mode is set, the shutter can be cocked with the film advance crank an infinite number of times without actually advancing the film.

==== Mirror Lockup ====
The function of a camera's mirror lockup (also abbreviated MLU) is to reduce the potential for motion blur due to the movement of the mirror inside the camera. This movement will potentially effect photographs only when shooting at shutter speeds of 1/60th of a second or slower. Since the mirror that allows viewing and composing through the viewfinder before actually taking a picture is stuck in its upright position, you will no longer be able to use the viewfinder once the MLU function is engaged.

To engage this function on the Bronica, first advance the film with the crank. There is a lever located to the right of the multiple exposure lever. Move this lever counter-clockwise. You will know it is engaged when you can not see anything through the viewfinder.

There are three settings for the mirror lockup function. "N" for normal in which the mirror will not lock up, and "S" for single frame and "C" for continuous in which the mirror will be locked up.

If you are on your last exposure of the roll and the mirror lock up function is still engaged, the shutter will continue to release every 360 degree turn and will not advance the film as would usually happen after the last exposure.

[[File:Mamiya-top.jpg|thumb|Mamiya C330]]

=== Mamiya C330 & C220 ===
The Mamiya cameras at Media Loan are perhaps the least intuitive to use of the medium format cameras. Learning to use one properly, however, is well worth it for both high quality images and mad style points. Like large format cameras, the Mamiya uses bellows to focus. Instead of adjusting the elements of glass within the lens, like with lenses that can focus internally, bellows physically move the lens farther or closer to the plane of film in order to focus.

The Mamiya shoots square frames that are 2 1/4 inch long in each direction.
[[File:Mamiya pressure plate.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Pressure plate film type]]

==== Before Loading Film ====
[[File:Mamiya-Unlocking.gif|thumb|150x150px|Cover dial rotation]]
Like the Pentax 6x7, the Mamiya can shoot with either 120 or 220 film and the camera needs to be adjusted accordingly before loading film. First, adjust the orientation of the pressure plate on the inside of the camera to coincide with the kind of film you are using. To open the back of the camera rotate the silver locking disk at the top of the back side of the camera so that the red dot is pointing up and you can slide the disk in the direction of the arrow.
[[File:Mamiya film type.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Film type indicator]]
[[File:Mamiya dial.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Parallax dial]]
Because the Mamiya uses a twin lens system rather than being an SLR, you will also need to adjust the parallax adjustment to match whatever the focal length of the lens is you are using. This can be set by the outer ring on the main dial on the left side of the camera. Depending on the adjustment made and the distance of the camera from the subject, a bar will appear on the left side of the viewfinder. ''This is important to notice as it indicates the top of the frame and everything above the bar will be cut off on the actual film, even though it is present in the viewfinder.''

Additionally, because the farther the bellows take the lens away from the film, light is increasingly lost along the way from when it enters the lens to when it reaches the film. Inside the viewfinder, the number that the moving bar lands at indicates in number of stops how much to increase the exposure by in order to compensate for the reduced light.

==== Loading Film ====
With the neck strap around your neck, open the back of the camera as indicated in the previous section. There are two spool release knobs on the left side of the camera. These pull out and will allow you to remove the film spools. Twist these knobs while pulling to lock them in their disengaged position. On the Mamiya, the film moves from bottom to top, opposite of the Bronica cameras move film. Accordingly, place the empty take up spool in the top compartment. Lock it in place. Then place your fresh roll of film in the bottom compartment and lock it in place.
[[File:Mamiya film loading.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Loading film]]
Pull out the film leader from the fresh spool and bring it up to the empty spool and thread it into that spool. Once threaded, turn the film advance crank on the right side of the camera clockwise to advance the film leader until the printed arrow on the leader matches up with the start mark on the inside of the camera (located a little lower than half way down on the right side.)

Close the back of the camera by pushing firmly on either side of the silver locking dial. Once closed, turn the locking dial counter-clockwise to lock the back cover in place. Continue to turn the film advance crank clockwise until it won't turn anymore. Your shutter is now cocked and ready to take a picture.

==== Exposing, Focusing, & Taking a Picture ====
[[File:Mamiya exposure.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Shutter speed & aperture]]
[[File:Mamiya aperture knob.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Aperture adjustment knob]]
The Mamiya is slightly different than other cameras in that both the aperture and shutter speed are set on the bottom lens. There are individual rings for each of these settings. The '''aperture''' can be set by moving the little black handle on the left side of the lens and the '''shutter speed''' can be set by twisting the knob with fractions of a second on it. Do not change the shutter speed after the shutter has been cocked.

The aperture ranges from f/2.8 to f/22 and the shutter speed ranges from 1/500th of a second to 1 seconds.

Since the Mamiya does not have an internal light meter there is no need for an '''ISO''' setting. The camera does however allow you to set the ISO of the film you are using on the dial configuration on the right side of the camera. This does not effect the performance of the camera at all but simply serves as a reminder for the kind of film you are shooting. Be sure to also check out a light meter from Media Loan when checking out a medium format camera.

Like the Bronica, most of Media Loan's Mamiyas feature waist-level viewfinders although some of them come with prism viewfinders. You can request either when checking one out. Also like the Bronica, the Mamiya has a magnifier seated within the focusing hood that can be expanded for critical focusing. To '''focus''' the camera, the Mamiya uses bellows that bring the lens closer or farther from the film plane. The lens is a fixed piece of glass and does not focus internally. To adjust the bellows and focus your image, twist either of the large black knobs on the bottom front of the camera.
[[File:Mamiya shutters.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Two shutter releases]]
After your film has been advanced by turning the crank clockwise, the camera is ready to '''take a picture'''. There are two ways to release the shutter. The first is a silver button on the front of the camera in the bottom left corner. A cable release can also be screwed in here. The second way is with the slide mechanism on the right side of the camera. There is a small black lever for your thumb. Slide this downward to release the shutter. As the Mamiyas are quite old, not all of the cameras are able to be fired with either method. Some can only use one or the other and this will be indicated by a note on the camera. Advance the film after each exposure.
[[File:Mamiya exposure type.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Exposure type dial]]
[[File:Mamiya lock.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Shutter release lock]]
There is a shutter lock on the slide mechanism that can be pushed to the "L" position. This prevents both shutter releases from being able to move and is thus useful to use when transporting the camera or arranging your shot.

To take take a picture using '''multiple exposures''', there is a dial next to the film advance crank that has the option of either "SINGLE" or "MULTI". Turn this to "MULTI" to be able to exposure a frame multiple times without needing to advance the film.

==== Unloading Film ====
After twelve frames are exposed, continue to turn the winding crank until there is no more tension on the advance crank. At this point, the protective paper of the film should be rolled up around the take up spool. When unloading the film, keep the spool rolled and hold the film tightly to prevent light exposure. Lick or peel the tab on the film and wrap it firmly around the exposed film. Close the camera back.
[[File:Mamiya flash plug.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Flash plug]]

==== Using a Flash ====
To synchronize a flash with the Mamiya, switch the Synchro Selector MX Switch to “X”. You will need to check out a Vivitar flash and a flash sync cable. Because the Vivitar flash was not designed to be used with the Mamiya, it will not properly mount on the hot shoe. Therefore, you’ll need to hold it while taking your picture. The Seagull and the Kalimar should not require a sync cable as they can mount onto the hot shoe.
'''Caution: Avoid moving the self-timer while the flash sync is set at “M”. It may cause damage to the self-timer.'''

[[category:Media Loan]]

Medium Format Cameras Gear Guide

2019-01-14T22:35:20Z

Cornelle:

[[File:MediumFormat-top-large.jpg|centre|800x800px]]
'''A proficiency test is required to check out these cameras.''' Schedule a proficiency at the front desk of Media Loan or by calling 360-867-6253. Read this operating guide and complete the written portion of the [[Medium Format Cameras Proficiency Test]] prior to your scheduled proficiency. (You must already be proficient in the 35mm manual camera before obtaining this proficiency.) Bring your answer sheet with you to the test, which should take approximately 30 - 45 minutes.

=== Introduction to Medium Format ===

==== Medium Format vs. 35mm ====
This is an instructional guide to the medium format film
cameras available at Media Loan. It will cover a brief introduction to medium
format photography and then go through the operating steps for each of our
models.

When talking about film photography, there are three main
types of film, or formats: 35mm, medium format, and large format. With medium
and large format, the frame size on the film is much larger than 35mm film and yields significantly more detail and the ability to be printed at very large sizes. In essence, it
is a question of quality. The size and shape of the actual frame is variable
depending on the camera (whether your picture is a square, rectangle, skinny
rectangle, etc.) The size of the frame is often indicated in the name of the
camera, like the Pentax 6x7 whose frame dimensions are 6cm by 7cm. With 35mm
photography the size of the frame is always 35mm across regardless of the
camera used.

Medium format film comes wrapped around a plastic spool with
light-safe black paper layered around the film itself. There is no metal
canister like with 35mm film. Additionally, when there are no more exposures
left on the roll, medium format film is not rewound back on to the spool but is
transferred to another take-up spool on the other side of the camera.

There are two types of medium format film, 120 and 220. The
film is exactly the same except that 220 film contains twice the amount of
exposures as 120. However, most medium format cameras can shoot only one or the
other. The Pentax 6x7 and the Mamiya cameras have the ability to shoot both but the camera needs to be adjusted
to the right setting prior to loading the film. 120 film is the most common and
allows for 10-12 exposures depending on the camera’s aspect ratio. Keep in mind that the Photo Store and many other stores do not process 220 film.

==== Tools Required ====
In order to shoot on a medium format camera, you will need some
accessories. Some are optional while others are not. The essentials include an
'''empty film spool''' that your exposed film will be transferred on to (there should
already be one in the camera from the previous user. If there isn’t ask a Media
Loan staff member to give you one.) You will also need a '''light meter''' as most of our medium
format cameras do not have built in meters.

Refer
to [http://helpwiki.evergreen.edu/wiki/index.php/Light_Meters_Quick_Guide Media Loan’s operating guide for light meters] to find out how to use what
might be called your medium format camera’s best friend.

Other accessories include tripods, cable releases, and
flashes. If using a flash, remember to also pick up a flash sync cable.

==== Precautions ====
These cameras are old, expensive, and used by many students. Please give them the respect they deserve. Before handling a camera, be
aware of what can potentially damage it and what improper usage looks like.

Some general rules for these cameras are:

·
Do not expose them to water or moisture. They
are not weather proof.

·
Do not leave in excessive heat, like in a car.

·
Do not leave in excessive cold, like the
freezer.

·
Do not try to force any mechanism on the camera.
You’re probably doing it wrong if it feels like a lot of force.

·
Do not remove the prism viewfinder or the lens. This will
get dust inside the camera.

·
'''NEVER LEAVE ANYTHING FROM MEDIA LOAN IN YOUR
CAR!'''

·
As with all Media Loan equipment, you are 100% financially
responsibly for any damage and repairs done to the camera.
[[File:Pentax-top.jpg|thumb|Pentax 6x7]][[File:Pentax film type.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Film type dial]]
=== Pentax 6X7 ===
The Pentax 6x7 is perhaps the easiest to use of
all our medium format cameras as it most resembles the shape and operation
of a 35mm camera. It is a single lens reflex (SLR) camera meaning that what you see
through the viewfinder is the actual image that will appear on the film. This
camera can shoot both 120 and 220 film. You will not be able to release the
shutter until there is film loaded
==== Before Loading Film ====
[[File:IMG 3315.JPG|thumb|150x150px|left|Handle screw]]
Firstly, be sure that the wooden handle grip is screwed on tight. All of the camera’s weight rests on this handle.

Then you need to set
the film type you are working with, either 120 or 220. There are two places
that need to be adjusted for this. If you’re holding the camera like you would
to shoot, the first is on the right side of the camera. [[File:Pentax Pressure Plate.jpg|thumb|150x150px|left|Pressure plate film type]]There is a dial that
[[File:Pentax locks.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Spool dial locks]]
[[File:Pentax wrong.jpg|150x150px|thumb|Incorrect film direction]]
lets your choose between the two. You will need a quarter or a strong finger
nail to move it. The second adjustment is found on the inside of the camera.
Open the camera by pulling down on the silver release on the bottom left side
of the camera. Notice the black speckled pressure plate on the door. Following
the direction of the arrows there, gently push the pressure plate down and to
the side that corresponds to your film type.

==== Loading Film ====
[[File:Pentax back cover.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Cover release latch]]
It is best to do this while sitting as these cameras do not come with neck straps. First, open the back of
the camera if it is not already open from the previous step. On the bottom of
the camera are two silver dials that hold the film spools in place. Fold out their handles and turn these
counter-clockwise and pull them up until the stay put.
Make sure your empty take-up spool is on the right side. If there is
no spool in the camera, ask a Media Loan or Photoland staff to give you one.
(It is common medium format etiquette to leave your old spool in the camera
when you’re done using it as it is not needed for developing.) [[File:Pentax correct.jpg|150x150px|thumb|Correct film direction]]Like with 35mm film, the Pentax 6x7 needs to be loaded
in a “up and over” style and not “down and under.”
After you’ve aligned the cross in the top of the film spool
with the notch in the camera, close the silver dials on the bottom of the
camera. Now pull the film across to the right side of the camera and thread the
film into the take-up spool just as you would with 35mm film. Use the crank lever to advance the film
and stop when the arrows on the film paper line up with the arrow on the inside
of the camera.

Close the back of the camera and advance the
film until “0” is line up with the red dot in the frame counter.

==== Exposing, Focusing, & Taking a Picture ====
The '''shutter speed''' is set by the dial on the top left side
of the camera. The current setting is indicated by whatever number is next to the
small red LED just to the right of the dial. Since there is no built in light
meter on this camera, there is no need to set the '''ISO''' for whatever film you are
using.

If using a flash, you must use a shutter speed on this
camera of 1/30<sup>th</sup> of slower.

If you wish to do a timed exposure longer than one second
and you don’t want to keep you finger on the shutter as the “Bulb”
setting would allow, rotate the shutter speed dial to anywhere between the red “X” and “1000.”
Now, releasing the shutter will keep it open until you rotate the shutter speed
dial back to “X”.

The '''aperture''' ring is located on the lens. This is the ring
closest to the body of the camera and ranges from f/2.4 to f/22. The aperture
ring will be your primary tool for exposing. Also located on the lens is an
aperture preview mechanism. This allows you get see your depth of field before
actually taking a picture. You can lock this switch in "AUTO" mode so
that you will always be previewing your aperture. To do this, slide the switch
to "AUTO" and push down. To release it back to manual, push down on the other side of
the switch.

To focus, simply look through the viewfinder and adjust the
focus ring until the split viewfinder is even and the image looks crisp.

To release the shutter and take a picture, first crank the film advance level with your right thumb and smoothly and firmly depress the silver button next to the crank.

A cable release can be attached by screwing one into the shutter release button just as with Media Loan's 35mm Pentax K-1000 cameras.

The Pentax 6x7 can not take multiple exposure pictures.

==== Unloading Film ====

Once all of the frames are exposed you’ll want to unload
your film. When you’re ready to do this, wind the crank a few more times until
there is no more tension in the crank lever. By now the protective light-safe
paper should be covering the film and totally wrapped around the spool.
Unfasten the silver dials just like when loading film. Keeping a firm grip on the film so that it doesn't unroll,
lick or peel off the sticky tape on the roll and make sure it is securely attached to the
spool. Close everything back up.

==== Using a Flash ====
To use a flash with the Pentax 6x7, first attach the flash to the hot shoe mount on the handle. This camera has options for both X-type sync cables and FP-type sync cables. Use only the X-type as plugging an X cable into an FP housing can cause damage. Again, this camera can only use a flash when the shutter speed is set to 1/30th of a second or slower.
[[File:Bronica-top2.jpg|thumb|356x356px|Bronica SQ-B]]

=== Bronica ETRS, ETRSI, & SQ-B ===

There are three different models of the Bronica available at Media Loan: SB-Q, ETRS, and ETRSi. They are very similar in operation except for a few minor things like button placement and the viewfinders and accessories that come with each camera. The aspect ratio that these cameras shoot at is also different.
* The ETRS and ETRSi have prism viewfinders and are in a 6x6 (square) format.

* The SB-Q (aka 645) has a wast-level view finder and is in a 6x4.5 (rectangle) format.

The Bronica begins to feel like a departure from the 35mm cameras. It is essentially a cube with a lens attached. One notices a very different feel when shooting with a Bronica than with the Pentax 6x7. Since a lot of the controls are not in conventional places, it may take some time to get acquainted with this camera. All of the Bronica cameras can only use 120 film.
[[File:Cartridge doors.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Film cartridge doors]]
[[File:Bronica cartridge release.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Cartridge release latches]]
[[File:Bronica cartridge.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|The film cartridge ]]

==== Loading Film ====
To load film, open the back of the camera by pinching the buttons that lie just under the viewfinder that are indicated by arrows. It is spring loaded and the film cartridge may fall out so be prepared. The outer shell will fold down and then the film cartridge can be removed.
In the Bronica, film moves from top to bottom. This means your new roll of film will be on top and your empty spool on bottom Now that you're holding the film cartridge, notice there are two door flaps on the left side. Using your finger, push them open from the inside out. You will now be able to remove or insert film spools into each slot. Make sure the empty spool is on bottom and the fresh film is on top. Now you will take the film leader and run it over the pressure plate on the opposite side, bringing it down and around to the empty take up spool. A proper loading will have the black side of the paper leader facing outwards over the pressure plate. [[File:Bronica-Loading.gif|150x150px|thumb|Film direction]]Now, using the manual film advance wheel located on the right side of the cartridge, advance the film until the arrow on the leader aligns with the red arrow on the inside left of the cartridge.

To close the camera, the cartridge must first be aligned properly on the camera body, not inserted into the door. Once the cartridge is in place, close the door. It can be a little tricky to get it perfectly aligned. Do not force anything. If the door won't shut, take the cartridge out and try again.

Now wind the film advance lever until it stops moving and the frame counter is at 0.
[[File:Bronica viewfinder.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Waist-level viewfinder]]

==== Waist-level Viewfinder ====
[[File:Bronica magnifier.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Magnifier latch]]
[[File:Bronica magnifier2.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Magnifier]]Many of Media Loan's Bronicas, like the Mamiyas, feature waist-level viewfinders. This is different than a prism viewfinder in which the viewfinder is held up to the eye. Alternatively, waist-level viewfinders are held at the waist and have a "screen" and magnifier for focusing. Most waist-level viewfinders open by simply folding up the top of the camera. Sometimes there is a small latch. There are metal walls that will snap into place once it is open.
To open the magnifier for critical focusing, there is another release latch on the inside of the focusing hood. To close the magnifier, simply move it back into place with your finger, trying not to touch the actual glass.

Some of the Bronicas come with prism viewfinders, which you can ask for. Some of the prism viewfinders are electronic and feature an internal light meter.
==== Exposing, Focusing, & Taking a Picture ====
[[File:Bronica shutter speed.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Shutter speed dial]]
[[File:Bronica shutter.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Shutter release button]]
To set the '''shutter speed''', there is a dial on the right side of the camera body. The Bronica has a range of shutter speeds from 1/500th of a second to 8 seconds.

The '''aperture''' is set by twisting the aperture ring on the lens and has a range of f/2.4 to f/22.

If you are using a Bronica with a built in light meter, set the '''ISO''' to match your film speed by twisting the dial on the left of the viewfinder. If it does not have an internal light meter, you do not have to worry about setting your ISO.

To focus, open the magnifier in the focusing hood as described in the previous section. The Bronica's lens functions conveniently like most other camera lenses. Twist the focus ring until your subject comes into focus.

Before '''taking a picture''', the film must be advanced. Do this by winding the crank on the right side of the camera. When there is no film loaded in the camera, the crank will spin indefinitely. Once film has been loaded, the crank will stop itself in the correct position.

The shutter release button is a black button located on the front of the camera in the bottom left corner. You can attach a cable release by screwing one into the cable release hole on the left side of the camera.

It is preferable to take a picture in the steps in order to ensure a focused picture:
# Advance the film
# Set your shutter speed and aperture according to your light meter
# Focus on your subject
# Depress the shutter release button
[[File:Bronca flash plug.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Flash plug]]

==== Using a Flash ====
A flash can be connected using an X-type sync cable. The port for this flash is located on the front side of the camera in the top right corner. When plugging and unplugging a sync cable, always pull gently and straight out. Never use a twisting motion to get it out.

The Bronica can conveniently sync with flash at any shutter speed, even at its fastest of 1/500th of a second.
[[File:Bronica handles.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Mirror lock-up & multiple exposure knobs]]

==== Multiple Exposure ====
The Bronica cameras can take multiple exposures, exposing a single frame an unlimited number of times.

To do this, first wind the crank to advance the film. There is a small lever next to the crank that needs to be rotated clockwise. A red warning indicator will appear in the viewfinder letting you know that the multiple exposure mode is engaged, however it is always wise to double check that this lever is in the left or counter-clockwise position (single exposure mode) prior to shooting. When the multiple exposure mode is set, the shutter can be cocked with the film advance crank an infinite number of times without actually advancing the film.

==== Mirror Lockup ====
The function of a camera's mirror lockup (also abbreviated MLU) is to reduce the potential for motion blur due to the movement of the mirror inside the camera. This movement will potentially effect photographs only when shooting at shutter speeds of 1/60th of a second or slower. Since the mirror that allows viewing and composing through the viewfinder before actually taking a picture is stuck in its upright position, you will no longer be able to use the viewfinder once the MLU function is engaged.

To engage this function on the Bronica, first advance the film with the crank. There is a lever located to the right of the multiple exposure lever. Move this lever counter-clockwise. You will know it is engaged when you can not see anything through the viewfinder.

There are three settings for the mirror lockup function. "N" for normal in which the mirror will not lock up, and "S" for single frame and "C" for continuous in which the mirror will be locked up.

If you are on your last exposure of the roll and the mirror lock up function is still engaged, the shutter will continue to release every 360 degree turn and will not advance the film as would usually happen after the last exposure.

[[File:Mamiya-top.jpg|thumb|Mamiya C330]]

=== Mamiya C330 & C220 ===
The Mamiya cameras at Media Loan are perhaps the least intuitive to use of the medium format cameras. Learning to use one properly, however, is well worth it for both high quality images and mad style points. Like large format cameras, the Mamiya uses bellows to focus. Instead of adjusting the elements of glass within the lens, like with lenses that can focus internally, bellows physically move the lens farther or closer to the plane of film in order to focus.

The Mamiya shoots square frames that are 2 1/4 inch long in each direction.
[[File:Mamiya pressure plate.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Pressure plate film type]]

==== Before Loading Film ====
[[File:Mamiya-Unlocking.gif|thumb|150x150px|Cover dial rotation]]
Like the Pentax 6x7, the Mamiya can shoot with either 120 or 220 film and the camera needs to be adjusted accordingly before loading film. First, adjust the orientation of the pressure plate on the inside of the camera to coincide with the kind of film you are using. To open the back of the camera rotate the silver locking disk at the top of the back side of the camera so that the red dot is pointing up and you can slide the disk in the direction of the arrow.
[[File:Mamiya film type.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Film type indicator]]
[[File:Mamiya dial.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Parallax dial]]
Because the Mamiya uses a twin lens system rather than being an SLR, you will also need to adjust the parallax adjustment to match whatever the focal length of the lens is you are using. This can be set by the outer ring on the main dial on the left side of the camera. Depending on the adjustment made and the distance of the camera from the subject, a bar will appear on the left side of the viewfinder. ''This is important to notice as it indicates the top of the frame and everything above the bar will be cut off on the actual film, even though it is present in the viewfinder.''

Additionally, because the farther the bellows take the lens away from the film, light is increasingly lost along the way from when it enters the lens to when it reaches the film. Inside the viewfinder, the number that the moving bar lands at indicates in number of stops how much to increase the exposure by in order to compensate for the reduced light.

==== Loading Film ====
With the neck strap around your neck, open the back of the camera as indicated in the previous section. There are two spool release knobs on the left side of the camera. These pull out and will allow you to remove the film spools. Twist these knobs while pulling to lock them in their disengaged position. On the Mamiya, the film moves from bottom to top, opposite of the Bronica cameras move film. Accordingly, place the empty take up spool in the top compartment. Lock it in place. Then place your fresh roll of film in the bottom compartment and lock it in place.
[[File:Mamiya film loading.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Loading film]]
Pull out the film leader from the fresh spool and bring it up to the empty spool and thread it into that spool. Once threaded, turn the film advance crank on the right side of the camera clockwise to advance the film leader until the printed arrow on the leader matches up with the start mark on the inside of the camera (located a little lower than half way down on the right side.)

Close the back of the camera by pushing firmly on either side of the silver locking dial. Once closed, turn the locking dial counter-clockwise to lock the back cover in place. Continue to turn the film advance crank clockwise until it won't turn anymore. Your shutter is now cocked and ready to take a picture.

==== Exposing, Focusing, & Taking a Picture ====
[[File:Mamiya exposure.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Shutter speed & aperture]]
[[File:Mamiya aperture knob.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Aperture adjustment knob]]
The Mamiya is slightly different than other cameras in that both the aperture and shutter speed are set on the bottom lens. There are individual rings for each of these settings. The '''aperture''' can be set by moving the little black handle on the left side of the lens and the '''shutter speed''' can be set by twisting the knob with fractions of a second on it. Do not change the shutter speed after the shutter has been cocked.

The aperture ranges from f/2.8 to f/22 and the shutter speed ranges from 1/500th of a second to 1 seconds.

Since the Mamiya does not have an internal light meter there is no need for an '''ISO''' setting. The camera does however allow you to set the ISO of the film you are using on the dial configuration on the right side of the camera. This does not effect the performance of the camera at all but simply serves as a reminder for the kind of film you are shooting. Be sure to also check out a light meter from Media Loan when checking out a medium format camera.

Like the Bronica, most of Media Loan's Mamiyas feature waist-level viewfinders although some of them come with prism viewfinders. You can request either when checking one out. Also like the Bronica, the Mamiya has a magnifier seated within the focusing hood that can be expanded for critical focusing. To '''focus''' the camera, the Mamiya uses bellows that bring the lens closer or farther from the film plane. The lens is a fixed piece of glass and does not focus internally. To adjust the bellows and focus your image, twist either of the large black knobs on the bottom front of the camera.
[[File:Mamiya shutters.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Two shutter releases]]
After your film has been advanced by turning the crank clockwise, the camera is ready to '''take a picture'''. There are two ways to release the shutter. The first is a silver button on the front of the camera in the bottom left corner. A cable release can also be screwed in here. The second way is with the slide mechanism on the right side of the camera. There is a small black lever for your thumb. Slide this downward to release the shutter. As the Mamiyas are quite old, not all of the cameras are able to be fired with either method. Some can only use one or the other and this will be indicated by a note on the camera. Advance the film after each exposure.
[[File:Mamiya exposure type.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Exposure type dial]]
[[File:Mamiya lock.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Shutter release lock]]
There is a shutter lock on the slide mechanism that can be pushed to the "L" position. This prevents both shutter releases from being able to move and is thus useful to use when transporting the camera or arranging your shot.

To take take a picture using '''multiple exposures''', there is a dial next to the film advance crank that has the option of either "SINGLE" or "MULTI". Turn this to "MULTI" to be able to exposure a frame multiple times without needing to advance the film.

==== Unloading Film ====
After twelve frames are exposed, continue to turn the winding crank until there is no more tension on the advance crank. At this point, the protective paper of the film should be rolled up around the take up spool. When unloading the film, keep the spool rolled and hold the film tightly to prevent light exposure. Lick or peel the tab on the film and wrap it firmly around the exposed film. Close the camera back.
[[File:Mamiya flash plug.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Flash plug]]

==== Using a Flash ====
To synchronize a flash with the Mamiya, switch the Synchro Selector MX Switch to “X”. You will need to check out a Vivitar flash and a flash sync cable. Because the Vivitar flash was not designed to be used with the Mamiya, it will not properly mount on the hot shoe. Therefore, you’ll need to hold it while taking your picture. The Seagull and the Kalimar should not require a sync cable as they can mount onto the hot shoe.
Caution: Avoid moving the self-timer while the flash sync is set at “M”. It may cause damage to the self-timer.

[[category:Media Loan]]

Medium Format Cameras Gear Guide

2019-01-14T22:33:52Z

Cornelle:

[[File:MediumFormat-top-large.jpg|centre|800x800px]]
'''A proficiency test is required to check out these cameras.''' Schedule a proficiency at the front desk of Media Loan or by calling 360-867-6253. Read this operating guide and complete the written portion of the [[Medium Format Cameras Proficiency Test]] prior to your scheduled proficiency. (You must already be proficient in the 35mm manual camera before obtaining this proficiency.) Bring your answer sheet with you to the test, which should take approximately 30 - 45 minutes.

=== Introduction to Medium Format ===

==== Medium Format vs. 35mm ====
This is an instructional guide to the medium format film
cameras available at Media Loan. It will cover a brief introduction to medium
format photography and then go through the operating steps for each of our
models.

When talking about film photography, there are three main
types of film, or formats: 35mm, medium format, and large format. With medium
and large format, the frame size on the film is much larger than 35mm film and yields significantly more detail and the ability to be printed at very large sizes. In essence, it
is a question of quality. The size and shape of the actual frame is variable
depending on the camera (whether your picture is a square, rectangle, skinny
rectangle, etc.) The size of the frame is often indicated in the name of the
camera, like the Pentax 6x7 whose frame dimensions are 6cm by 7cm. With 35mm
photography the size of the frame is always 35mm across regardless of the
camera used.

Medium format film comes wrapped around a plastic spool with
light-safe black paper layered around the film itself. There is no metal
canister like with 35mm film. Additionally, when there are no more exposures
left on the roll, medium format film is not rewound back on to the spool but is
transferred to another take-up spool on the other side of the camera.

There are two types of medium format film, 120 and 220. The
film is exactly the same except that 220 film contains twice the amount of
exposures as 120. However, most medium format cameras can shoot only one or the
other. The Pentax 6x7 and the Mamiya cameras have the ability to shoot both but the camera needs to be adjusted
to the right setting prior to loading the film. 120 film is the most common and
allows for 10-12 exposures depending on the camera’s aspect ratio. Keep in mind that the Photo Store and many other stores do not process 220 film.

==== Tools Required ====
In order to shoot on a medium format camera, you will need some
accessories. Some are optional while others are not. The essentials include an
'''empty film spool''' that your exposed film will be transferred on to (there should
already be one in the camera from the previous user. If there isn’t ask a Media
Loan staff member to give you one.) You will also need a '''light meter''' as most of our medium
format cameras do not have built in meters.

Refer
to [http://helpwiki.evergreen.edu/wiki/index.php/Light_Meters_Quick_Guide Media Loan’s operating guide for light meters] to find out how to use what
might be called your medium format camera’s best friend.

Other accessories include tripods, cable releases, and
flashes. If using a flash, remember to also pick up a flash sync cable.

==== Precautions ====
These cameras are old, expensive, and used by many students. Please give them the respect they deserve. Before handling a camera, be
aware of what can potentially damage it and what improper usage looks like.

Some general rules for these cameras are:

·
Do not expose them to water or moisture. They
are not weather proof.

·
Do not leave in excessive heat, like in a car.

·
Do not leave in excessive cold, like the
freezer.

·
Do not try to force any mechanism on the camera.
You’re probably doing it wrong if it feels like a lot of force.

·
Do not remove the prism viewfinder or the lens. This will
get dust inside the camera.

·
NEVER LEAVE ANYTHING FROM MEDIA LOAN IN YOUR
CAR!

·
As with all Media Loan equipment, you are 100% financially
responsibly for any damage and repairs done to the camera.
[[File:Pentax-top.jpg|thumb|Pentax 6x7]][[File:Pentax film type.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Film type dial]]
=== Pentax 6X7 ===
The Pentax 6x7 is perhaps the easiest to use of
all our medium format cameras as it most resembles the shape and operation
of a 35mm camera. It is a single lens reflex (SLR) camera meaning that what you see
through the viewfinder is the actual image that will appear on the film. This
camera can shoot both 120 and 220 film. You will not be able to release the
shutter until there is film loaded
==== Before Loading Film ====
[[File:IMG 3315.JPG|thumb|150x150px|left|Handle screw]]
Firstly, be sure that the wooden handle grip is screwed on tight. All of the camera’s weight rests on this handle.

Then you need to set
the film type you are working with, either 120 or 220. There are two places
that need to be adjusted for this. If you’re holding the camera like you would
to shoot, the first is on the right side of the camera. [[File:Pentax Pressure Plate.jpg|thumb|150x150px|left|Pressure plate film type]]There is a dial that
[[File:Pentax locks.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Spool dial locks]]
[[File:Pentax wrong.jpg|150x150px|thumb|Incorrect film direction]]
lets your choose between the two. You will need a quarter or a strong finger
nail to move it. The second adjustment is found on the inside of the camera.
Open the camera by pulling down on the silver release on the bottom left side
of the camera. Notice the black speckled pressure plate on the door. Following
the direction of the arrows there, gently push the pressure plate down and to
the side that corresponds to your film type.

==== Loading Film ====
[[File:Pentax back cover.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Cover release latch]]
It is best to do this while sitting as these cameras do not come with neck straps. First, open the back of
the camera if it is not already open from the previous step. On the bottom of
the camera are two silver dials that hold the film spools in place. Fold out their handles and turn these
counter-clockwise and pull them up until the stay put.
Make sure your empty take-up spool is on the right side. If there is
no spool in the camera, ask a Media Loan or Photoland staff to give you one.
(It is common medium format etiquette to leave your old spool in the camera
when you’re done using it as it is not needed for developing.) [[File:Pentax correct.jpg|150x150px|thumb|Correct film direction]]Like with 35mm film, the Pentax 6x7 needs to be loaded
in a “up and over” style and not “down and under.”
After you’ve aligned the cross in the top of the film spool
with the notch in the camera, close the silver dials on the bottom of the
camera. Now pull the film across to the right side of the camera and thread the
film into the take-up spool just as you would with 35mm film. Use the crank lever to advance the film
and stop when the arrows on the film paper line up with the arrow on the inside
of the camera.

Close the back of the camera and advance the
film until “0” is line up with the red dot in the frame counter.

==== Exposing, Focusing, & Taking a Picture ====
The '''shutter speed''' is set by the dial on the top left side
of the camera. The current setting is indicated by whatever number is next to the
small red LED just to the right of the dial. Since there is no built in light
meter on this camera, there is no need to set the '''ISO''' for whatever film you are
using.

If using a flash, you must use a shutter speed on this
camera of 1/30<sup>th</sup> of slower.

If you wish to do a timed exposure longer than one second
and you don’t want to keep you finger on the shutter as the “Bulb”
setting would allow, rotate the shutter speed dial to anywhere between the red “X” and “1000.”
Now, releasing the shutter will keep it open until you rotate the shutter speed
dial back to “X”.

The '''aperture''' ring is located on the lens. This is the ring
closest to the body of the camera and ranges from f/2.4 to f/22. The aperture
ring will be your primary tool for exposing. Also located on the lens is an
aperture preview mechanism. This allows you get see your depth of field before
actually taking a picture. You can lock this switch in "AUTO" mode so
that you will always be previewing your aperture. To do this, slide the switch
to "AUTO" and push down. To release it back to manual, push down on the other side of
the switch.

To focus, simply look through the viewfinder and adjust the
focus ring until the split viewfinder is even and the image looks crisp.

To release the shutter and take a picture, first crank the film advance level with your right thumb and smoothly and firmly depress the silver button next to the crank.

A cable release can be attached by screwing one into the shutter release button just as with Media Loan's 35mm Pentax K-1000 cameras.

The Pentax 6x7 can not take multiple exposure pictures.

==== Unloading Film ====

Once all of the frames are exposed you’ll want to unload
your film. When you’re ready to do this, wind the crank a few more times until
there is no more tension in the crank lever. By now the protective light-safe
paper should be covering the film and totally wrapped around the spool.
Unfasten the silver dials just like when loading film. Keeping a firm grip on the film so that it doesn't unroll,
lick or peel off the sticky tape on the roll and make sure it is securely attached to the
spool. Close everything back up.

==== Using a Flash ====
To use a flash with the Pentax 6x7, first attach the flash to the hot shoe mount on the handle. This camera has options for both X-type sync cables and FP-type sync cables. Use only the X-type as plugging an X cable into an FP housing can cause damage. Again, this camera can only use a flash when the shutter speed is set to 1/30th of a second or slower.
[[File:Bronica-top2.jpg|thumb|356x356px|Bronica SQ-B]]

=== Bronica ETRS, ETRSI, & SQ-B ===

There are three different models of the Bronica available at Media Loan: SB-Q, ETRS, and ETRSi. They are very similar in operation except for a few minor things like button placement and the viewfinders and accessories that come with each camera. The aspect ratio that these cameras shoot at is also different.
* The ETRS and ETRSi have prism viewfinders and are in a 6x6 (square) format.

* The SB-Q (aka 645) has a wast-level view finder and is in a 6x4.5 (rectangle) format.

The Bronica begins to feel like a departure from the 35mm cameras. It is essentially a cube with a lens attached. One notices a very different feel when shooting with a Bronica than with the Pentax 6x7. Since a lot of the controls are not in conventional places, it may take some time to get acquainted with this camera. All of the Bronica cameras can only use 120 film.
[[File:Cartridge doors.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Film cartridge doors]]
[[File:Bronica cartridge release.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Cartridge release latches]]
[[File:Bronica cartridge.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|The film cartridge ]]

==== Loading Film ====
To load film, open the back of the camera by pinching the buttons that lie just under the viewfinder that are indicated by arrows. It is spring loaded and the film cartridge may fall out so be prepared. The outer shell will fold down and then the film cartridge can be removed.
In the Bronica, film moves from top to bottom. This means your new roll of film will be on top and your empty spool on bottom Now that you're holding the film cartridge, notice there are two door flaps on the left side. Using your finger, push them open from the inside out. You will now be able to remove or insert film spools into each slot. Make sure the empty spool is on bottom and the fresh film is on top. Now you will take the film leader and run it over the pressure plate on the opposite side, bringing it down and around to the empty take up spool. A proper loading will have the black side of the paper leader facing outwards over the pressure plate. [[File:Bronica-Loading.gif|150x150px|thumb|Film direction]]Now, using the manual film advance wheel located on the right side of the cartridge, advance the film until the arrow on the leader aligns with the red arrow on the inside left of the cartridge.

To close the camera, the cartridge must first be aligned properly on the camera body, not inserted into the door. Once the cartridge is in place, close the door. It can be a little tricky to get it perfectly aligned. Do not force anything. If the door won't shut, take the cartridge out and try again.

Now wind the film advance lever until it stops moving and the frame counter is at 0.
[[File:Bronica viewfinder.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Waist-level viewfinder]]

==== Waist-level Viewfinder ====
[[File:Bronica magnifier.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Magnifier latch]]
[[File:Bronica magnifier2.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Magnifier]]Many of Media Loan's Bronicas, like the Mamiyas, feature waist-level viewfinders. This is different than a prism viewfinder in which the viewfinder is held up to the eye. Alternatively, waist-level viewfinders are held at the waist and have a "screen" and magnifier for focusing. Most waist-level viewfinders open by simply folding up the top of the camera. Sometimes there is a small latch. There are metal walls that will snap into place once it is open.
To open the magnifier for critical focusing, there is another release latch on the inside of the focusing hood. To close the magnifier, simply move it back into place with your finger, trying not to touch the actual glass.

Some of the Bronicas come with prism viewfinders, which you can ask for. Some of the prism viewfinders are electronic and feature an internal light meter.
==== Exposing, Focusing, & Taking a Picture ====
[[File:Bronica shutter speed.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Shutter speed dial]]
[[File:Bronica shutter.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Shutter release button]]
To set the '''shutter speed''', there is a dial on the right side of the camera body. The Bronica has a range of shutter speeds from 1/500th of a second to 8 seconds.

The '''aperture''' is set by twisting the aperture ring on the lens and has a range of f/2.4 to f/22.

If you are using a Bronica with a built in light meter, set the '''ISO''' to match your film speed by twisting the dial on the left of the viewfinder. If it does not have an internal light meter, you do not have to worry about setting your ISO.

To focus, open the magnifier in the focusing hood as described in the previous section. The Bronica's lens functions conveniently like most other camera lenses. Twist the focus ring until your subject comes into focus.

Before '''taking a picture''', the film must be advanced. Do this by winding the crank on the right side of the camera. When there is no film loaded in the camera, the crank will spin indefinitely. Once film has been loaded, the crank will stop itself in the correct position.

The shutter release button is a black button located on the front of the camera in the bottom left corner. You can attach a cable release by screwing one into the cable release hole on the left side of the camera.

It is preferable to take a picture in the steps in order to ensure a focused picture:
# Advance the film
# Set your shutter speed and aperture according to your light meter
# Focus on your subject
# Depress the shutter release button
[[File:Bronca flash plug.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Flash plug]]

==== Using a Flash ====
A flash can be connected using an X-type sync cable. The port for this flash is located on the front side of the camera in the top right corner. When plugging and unplugging a sync cable, always pull gently and straight out. Never use a twisting motion to get it out.

The Bronica can conveniently sync with flash at any shutter speed, even at its fastest of 1/500th of a second.
[[File:Bronica handles.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Mirror lock-up & multiple exposure knobs]]

==== Multiple Exposure ====
The Bronica cameras can take multiple exposures, exposing a single frame an unlimited number of times.

To do this, first wind the crank to advance the film. There is a small lever next to the crank that needs to be rotated clockwise. A red warning indicator will appear in the viewfinder letting you know that the multiple exposure mode is engaged, however it is always wise to double check that this lever is in the left or counter-clockwise position (single exposure mode) prior to shooting. When the multiple exposure mode is set, the shutter can be cocked with the film advance crank an infinite number of times without actually advancing the film.

==== Mirror Lockup ====
The function of a camera's mirror lockup (also abbreviated MLU) is to reduce the potential for motion blur due to the movement of the mirror inside the camera. This movement will potentially effect photographs only when shooting at shutter speeds of 1/60th of a second or slower. Since the mirror that allows viewing and composing through the viewfinder before actually taking a picture is stuck in its upright position, you will no longer be able to use the viewfinder once the MLU function is engaged.

To engage this function on the Bronica, first advance the film with the crank. There is a lever located to the right of the multiple exposure lever. Move this lever counter-clockwise. You will know it is engaged when you can not see anything through the viewfinder.

There are three settings for the mirror lockup function. "N" for normal in which the mirror will not lock up, and "S" for single frame and "C" for continuous in which the mirror will be locked up.

If you are on your last exposure of the roll and the mirror lock up function is still engaged, the shutter will continue to release every 360 degree turn and will not advance the film as would usually happen after the last exposure.

[[File:Mamiya-top.jpg|thumb|Mamiya C330]]

=== Mamiya C330 & C220 ===
The Mamiya cameras at Media Loan are perhaps the least intuitive to use of the medium format cameras. Learning to use one properly, however, is well worth it for both high quality images and mad style points. Like large format cameras, the Mamiya uses bellows to focus. Instead of adjusting the elements of glass within the lens, like with lenses that can focus internally, bellows physically move the lens farther or closer to the plane of film in order to focus.

The Mamiya shoots square frames that are 2 1/4 inch long in each direction.
[[File:Mamiya pressure plate.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Pressure plate film type]]

==== Before Loading Film ====
[[File:Mamiya-Unlocking.gif|thumb|150x150px|Cover dial rotation]]
Like the Pentax 6x7, the Mamiya can shoot with either 120 or 220 film and the camera needs to be adjusted accordingly before loading film. First, adjust the orientation of the pressure plate on the inside of the camera to coincide with the kind of film you are using. To open the back of the camera rotate the silver locking disk at the top of the back side of the camera so that the red dot is pointing up and you can slide the disk in the direction of the arrow.
[[File:Mamiya film type.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Film type indicator]]
[[File:Mamiya dial.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Parallax dial]]
Because the Mamiya uses a twin lens system rather than being an SLR, you will also need to adjust the parallax adjustment to match whatever the focal length of the lens is you are using. This can be set by the outer ring on the main dial on the left side of the camera. Depending on the adjustment made and the distance of the camera from the subject, a bar will appear on the left side of the viewfinder. ''This is important to notice as it indicates the top of the frame and everything above the bar will be cut off on the actual film, even though it is present in the viewfinder.''

Additionally, because the farther the bellows take the lens away from the film, light is increasingly lost along the way from when it enters the lens to when it reaches the film. Inside the viewfinder, the number that the moving bar lands at indicates in number of stops how much to increase the exposure by in order to compensate for the reduced light.

==== Loading Film ====
With the neck strap around your neck, open the back of the camera as indicated in the previous section. There are two spool release knobs on the left side of the camera. These pull out and will allow you to remove the film spools. Twist these knobs while pulling to lock them in their disengaged position. On the Mamiya, the film moves from bottom to top, opposite of the Bronica cameras move film. Accordingly, place the empty take up spool in the top compartment. Lock it in place. Then place your fresh roll of film in the bottom compartment and lock it in place.
[[File:Mamiya film loading.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Loading film]]
Pull out the film leader from the fresh spool and bring it up to the empty spool and thread it into that spool. Once threaded, turn the film advance crank on the right side of the camera clockwise to advance the film leader until the printed arrow on the leader matches up with the start mark on the inside of the camera (located a little lower than half way down on the right side.)

Close the back of the camera by pushing firmly on either side of the silver locking dial. Once closed, turn the locking dial counter-clockwise to lock the back cover in place. Continue to turn the film advance crank clockwise until it won't turn anymore. Your shutter is now cocked and ready to take a picture.

==== Exposing, Focusing, & Taking a Picture ====
[[File:Mamiya exposure.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Shutter speed & aperture]]
[[File:Mamiya aperture knob.JPG|thumb|150x150px|Aperture adjustment knob]]
The Mamiya is slightly different than other cameras in that both the aperture and shutter speed are set on the bottom lens. There are individual rings for each of these settings. The '''aperture''' can be set by moving the little black handle on the left side of the lens and the '''shutter speed''' can be set by twisting the knob with fractions of a second on it. Do not change the shutter speed after the shutter has been cocked.

The aperture ranges from f/2.8 to f/22 and the shutter speed ranges from 1/500th of a second to 1 seconds.

Since the Mamiya does not have an internal light meter there is no need for an '''ISO''' setting. The camera does however allow you to set the ISO of the film you are using on the dial configuration on the right side of the camera. This does not effect the performance of the camera at all but simply serves as a reminder for the kind of film you are shooting. Be sure to also check out a light meter from Media Loan when checking out a medium format camera.

Like the Bronica, most of Media Loan's Mamiyas feature waist-level viewfinders although some of them come with prism viewfinders. You can request either when checking one out. Also like the Bronica, the Mamiya has a magnifier seated within the focusing hood that can be expanded for critical focusing. To '''focus''' the camera, the Mamiya uses bellows that bring the lens closer or farther from the film plane. The lens is a fixed piece of glass and does not focus internally. To adjust the bellows and focus your image, twist either of the large black knobs on the bottom front of the camera.
[[File:Mamiya shutters.jpg|left|thumb|150x150px|Two shutter releases]]
After your film has been advanced by turning the crank clockwise, the camera is ready to '''take a picture'''. There are two ways to release the shutter. The first is a silver button on the front of the camera in the bottom left corner. A cable release can also be screwed in here. The second way is with the slide mechanism on the right side of the camera. There is a small black lever for your thumb. Slide this downward to release the shutter. As the Mamiyas are quite old, not all of the cameras are able to be fired with either method. Some can only use one or the other and this will be indicated by a note on the camera. Advance the film after each exposure.
[[File:Mamiya exposure type.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Exposure type dial]]
[[File:Mamiya lock.JPG|left|thumb|150x150px|Shutter release lock]]
There is a shutter lock on the slide mechanism that can be pushed to the "L" position. This prevents both shutter releases from being able to move and is thus useful to use when transporting the camera or arranging your shot.

To take take a picture using '''multiple exposures''', there is a dial next to the film advance crank that has the option of either "SINGLE" or "MULTI". Turn this to "MULTI" to be able to exposure a frame multiple times without needing to advance the film.

==== Unloading Film ====
After twelve frames are exposed, continue to turn the winding crank until there is no more tension on the advance crank. At this point, the protective paper of the film should be rolled up around the take up spool. When unloading the film, keep the spool rolled and hold the film tightly to prevent light exposure. Lick or peel the tab on the film and wrap it firmly around the exposed film. Close the camera back.
[[File:Mamiya flash plug.jpg|thumb|150x150px|Flash plug]]

==== Using a Flash ====
To synchronize a flash with the Mamiya, switch the Synchro Selector MX Switch to “X”. You will need to check out a Vivitar flash and a flash sync cable. Because the Vivitar flash was not designed to be used with the Mamiya, it will not properly mount on the hot shoe. Therefore, you’ll need to hold it while taking your picture. The Seagull and the Kalimar should not require a sync cable as they can mount onto the hot shoe.
Caution: Avoid moving the self-timer while the flash sync is set at “M”. It may cause damage to the self-timer.

[[category:Media Loan]]

Microphones in Audio Studio

2018-09-07T16:04:42Z

Cornelle:

Audio is a subjective field. Use your ears and good judgement to find out which mics you like for the different applications. The only thing that is not subjective is the fact that both ribbon and condenser microphones are more delicate and sensitive than dynamics, and thus easier to damage if treated carelessly or used to mic kick drums.
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center; background: Lavender;"
|-
! TESC SKU !! Image !! Brand/Model !! Pattern !! Usage !! Dynamic / Condenser !! Battery Type!! Connection !! More details
|-
|MAA||[[File:Maa.png|frameless]]||AKG D202E
|CARDIOID
|Designed to eliminate proximity effect, very flat frequency response.
|D
|||XLR
||30HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MAB
|[[File:Mab.png|frameless]]
|AKG D224E
|CARDIOID
|Designed to handle high SPL, good midrange,
-20db rear attenuation at all freqs
|D
|||XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAE
|[[File:Mae.png|frameless]]
|AKG 460B
|CARDIOID
|Low self-noise. Equipped with low cut filters or 10db pad.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAF
|[[File:Maf.png|frameless]]
|AKG D112
|CARDIOID
|Used primarily on kick drums. Handles high SPL.
|D
|||XLR
|20HZ-17KHZ
|-
|MAH
|[[File:Mah.png|frameless]]
|AKG C414
|VARIOUS
|Large diaphragm condenser.

Used on instruments
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAN
|[[File:Man.png|frameless]]
|ASTON

ORIGIN
|CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm condenser. Used on instruments and vocals
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAV
|[[File:Mav.png|frameless]]
|AUDIO

TECHNICA

4060
|CARDIOID
|Vacuum tube condenser. Used on vocals, instruments and amps.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MBN
|[[File:Mbn.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

KM-84
|CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm FET condenser. Used for drum overheads and on hi-hats
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MBO
|[[File:Mbo.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

U87
|VARIOUS
|Used for vocals. has low cut, 10db pad, and omni, cardioid, and figure 8 pickup switches
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MPB
|[[File:Mbp.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

KM-83
|OMIN
|The Omnidirectional equivalent of the km-84.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MBQ
|[[File:Mpq.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

U47

(FET)
|HYPER

CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm FET condenser. Good for studio vocals.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MCK
|[[File:Mck.png|frameless]]
|AVANTONE

CK-40
|STEREO

VARIOUS
|Stereo condenser with adjustable pickup patterns and swiveling capsule. Good for recording a room or in a figure 8 pattern.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MCNT
|[[File:Mcnt.png|frameless]]
|RODE NT4
|STEREO

CARDIOID
|Used for stereo recording of live performances, ensembles, etc
|C
|
9V BAT

ONLY
|XLR OR 1/8"
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MCP
|[[File:Mcp.png|frameless]]
|CROWN

PZM
|HEMI-

SPHERICAL
|Used for recording multiple voices in a conference or meeting setting.
|PZM
|48V OR 2X9V BAT
|XLR
|50HZ-15KHZ

VARIES
|-
|MCS
|[[File:Mcs.png|frameless]]
|STUDIO

PROJECTS

C4
|CARDIOID AND OMNI CAPSULES
|Small diaphragm condenser. Used for overhead or stereo recording of instruments or ensembles.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MED
|[[File:Med.png|frameless]]
|ELECTRO

VOICE (EV)

635A
|OMNI
|
A live interview microphone designed to eliminate plosives and other proximity effects.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-13KHZ
|-
|MEG
|[[File:Meg.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-16
|SUPERCARDIOID
|
Excellent for podium use where high intelligibility is important.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MEJ
|[[File:Mej.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-15
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Used for broadcasting and instrument recordings. Also used to mic speaker cabinets.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MEM
|[[File:Mem.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-55
|OMNI
|Handheld vocal use for interviews or recording of orchestras etc.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MEO
|[[File:Meo.png|frameless]]
|EV CS-15
|CARDIOID, OMNI CAPSULES
|Increased bass response at close proximities. Handheld vocal use.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MEP
|[[File:Mep.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-20
|CARDIOID
|Very popular vocal recording mic, used extensively in broadcasting.
|D
|
|XLR
|45HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MER
|[[File:Mer.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-18
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Designed to reduce microphone handling noise. Used for spoken word/announcing.
|D
|||XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MES
|[[File:Mes.png|frameless]]
|EV 408B
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Instrument mic, used mostly on instruments with high SPL, drums, horns, etc.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-19KHZ
|-
|MET
|[[File:Met.png|frameless]]
|EV 308B
|CARDIOID
|Slightly less directional version of the 408b. Instrument mic.
|D
|
|XLR
|45HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MEW
|[[File:Mew.png|frameless]]
|EARTH

WORKS

TC 20
|OMNI
|Reference flat microphone, 150db SPL rating, used for calibration or for very loud instruments/sound effects
|C
|48V
|XLR
|10HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MFH
|[[File:Mfh.png|frameless]]
|CASCADE

FATHEAD
|FIGURE 8
|Used for mid-side pickup, and on instruments and vocals.
|RIBBON
|NO
|XLR
|60HZ-8KHZ
|-
|MHA
|[[File:Mha.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM58
|CARDIOID
|
Suitable for vocal use in live performance, sound reinforcement, and studio recording.
|D
|
|XLR
|50HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MHB
|[[File:Mhb.png|frameless]]
|SHURE

BETA

87A
|SUPERCARDIOD
|Hand held vocal mic

good feedback rejection
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHD
|[[File:Mhd.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM53
|CARDIOID
|Vintage hand held vocal mic, designed for low proximity effect.
|D
|
|XLR
|70HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MHE
|[[File:Mhe.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM57
|CARDIOID
|good for live sound reinforcement, instruments and vocals. bright, clean sound.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MHF
|[[File:Mhf.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM81
|CARDIOID
|Used on instruments, popular for pianos.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHG
|[[File:Mhg.png|frameless]]
|SHURE VP88
|CARDIOID,

FIGURE 8
|Stereo recording mic used in broadcasting.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHK
|[[File:Mhk.png|frameless]]
|SHURE KSM32
|CARDIOID
|General purpose condenser mic, useable for vocals/instruments etc. equipped with -15db and low cut switches.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHM
|[[File:Mhm.png|frameless]]
|SHURE KSM137
|CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm condenser designed for instruments.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHS
|[[File:Mhs.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM7B
|CARDIOID
|Shure’s response to the EV RE-20, a popular broadcasting vocal mic.
|D
|
|XLR
|50HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MEF
|[[File:BETA52A.JPG|frameless|155x155px]]
|SHURE BETA 52A
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Supercardioid specifically for kick drums
|D
|
|XLR
|20HZ-
10KHZ
|-
|MML
|[[File:Mml.png|frameless]]
|MARSHAL

MXL2003
|CARDIOID
|General purpose condenser mic, useable on vocals, instruments, ensembles etc
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-23KHZ
|-
|MNA
|[[File:Mna.png|frameless]]
|SENNHEISER 421
|CARDIOID
|Vocal or instrument mic popular in studios
|D
|
|XLR
|30HZ-17KHZ
|-
|MKH
|[[File:MKH40.jpg|centre|frameless|152x152px]]
|SENNHEISER MKH 40
|CARDIOID
|The MKH 40 P 48 is a high frequency condenser microphone with an excellent frequency range.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-
20KHZ
|-
|MAD
|[[File:E605.JPG|frameless|160x160px]]
|SENNHEISER
E604 DRUM MIC KIT
|CARDIOID
|Mic kit specifically built for snare drums. Emphasis on mid and high frequencies, with a fairly clear low frequency clarity. Based on MD 421 technology.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-
18KHZ
|-
|MNC
|[[File:Mnc.png|frameless]]
|MNC CONDENSER COMBO KIT
|VARIOUS
|Useful for field recording, comes with various pickup patterns for versatility of recording.
|C
|48V OR AA
|XLR
|
|-
|MND
|[[File:Mnd.png|frameless]]
|SENNHEISER 441
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Vocal and instrument mic equipped with a 5 position bass roll off switch and a treble boost switch
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MNE
|[[File:Mne.png|frameless]]
|DR.NORMAR'S BINAURAL HEAD
(MKE 2002)
|OMNI
|Sennheiser binaural microphone pair, for recording a 3d stereo field for playback over headphones.
|C
|9V ONLY
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MOF
|[[File:Mof.png|frameless]]
|SONY ECM50
|OMNI
|Vintage lavalier vocal mic
|C
|48V

OR E90

BAT
|XLR
|40HZ-14KHZ
|-
|MOH
|[[File:Moh.png|frameless]]
|SONY ECM22P
|CARDIOID
|Instrument/vocal mic, can use external phantom power or battery power between 3.7 and 9 volts
|C
|206 BAT OR

48V
|XLR
|40HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MPP
|[[File:Mpp.png|frameless]]
|PACIFIC PRO LD1
|CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm condenser, used for vocals, instruments, ensembles etc
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MRB
|[[File:Mrb.png|frameless]]
|BEYER M160
|HYPERCARDIOID
|Designed for instruments, popular on strings.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MRC
|[[File:Mrc.png|frameless]]
|COLES 4038
|FIGURE 8
|Vocal/instrument mic, popular with BBC broadcasting and recording studios.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|30HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MRR
|[[File:Mrr.png|frameless]]
|RCA 77DX
|VARIOUS
|Vintage ribbon mic, featuring cardioid, omni, and figure 8 polar patterns. Popular in broadcasting for vocals.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MRY
|[[File:Mry.png|frameless|100x100px]]
|ROYER R121
|FIGURE 8
|High quality ribbon instrument mic.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MTS
|[[File:Mts.png|frameless|110x110px]]
|CHAMELEON LABS TS-1
|OMNI,
CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm tube mic, used primarily on instruments
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MTS2
|[[File:Mts2.png|frameless|100x100px]]
|CHAMELEON LABS TS-2
|VARIOUS
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used primarily on vocals.
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MSV
|[[File:Msv.png|frameless]]
|SE ELECTRONICS SE 5000
|
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used on vocals
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|
|-
|MSZ
|[[File:Msz.png|frameless]]
|SE ELECTRONICS SE 5600
|
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used on vocals
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|
|}

[[Category:Media Loan]]

File:E605.JPG

2018-09-07T15:56:30Z

Cornelle:

Microphones in Audio Studio

2018-09-06T19:23:53Z

Cornelle:

Audio is a subjective field. Use your ears and good judgement to find out which mics you like for the different applications. The only thing that is not subjective is the fact that both ribbon and condenser microphones are more delicate and sensitive than dynamics, and thus easier to damage if treated carelessly or used to mic kick drums.
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center; background: Lavender;"
|-
! TESC SKU !! Image !! Brand/Model !! Pattern !! Usage !! Dynamic / Condenser !! Battery Type!! Connection !! More details
|-
|MAA||[[File:Maa.png|frameless]]||AKG D202E
|CARDIOID
|Designed to eliminate proximity effect, very flat frequency response.
|D
|||XLR
||30HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MAB
|[[File:Mab.png|frameless]]
|AKG D224E
|CARDIOID
|Designed to handle high SPL, good midrange,
-20db rear attenuation at all freqs
|D
|||XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAE
|[[File:Mae.png|frameless]]
|AKG 460B
|CARDIOID
|Low self-noise. Equipped with low cut filters or 10db pad.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAF
|[[File:Maf.png|frameless]]
|AKG D112
|CARDIOID
|Used primarily on kick drums. Handles high SPL.
|D
|||XLR
|20HZ-17KHZ
|-
|MAH
|[[File:Mah.png|frameless]]
|AKG C414
|VARIOUS
|Large diaphragm condenser.

Used on instruments
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAN
|[[File:Man.png|frameless]]
|ASTON

ORIGIN
|CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm condenser. Used on instruments and vocals
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAV
|[[File:Mav.png|frameless]]
|AUDIO

TECHNICA

4060
|CARDIOID
|Vacuum tube condenser. Used on vocals, instruments and amps.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MBN
|[[File:Mbn.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

KM-84
|CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm FET condenser. Used for drum overheads and on hi-hats
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MBO
|[[File:Mbo.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

U87
|VARIOUS
|Used for vocals. has low cut, 10db pad, and omni, cardioid, and figure 8 pickup switches
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MPB
|[[File:Mbp.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

KM-83
|OMIN
|The Omnidirectional equivalent of the km-84.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MBQ
|[[File:Mpq.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

U47

(FET)
|HYPER

CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm FET condenser. Good for studio vocals.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MCK
|[[File:Mck.png|frameless]]
|AVANTONE

CK-40
|STEREO

VARIOUS
|Stereo condenser with adjustable pickup patterns and swiveling capsule. Good for recording a room or in a figure 8 pattern.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MCNT
|[[File:Mcnt.png|frameless]]
|RODE NT4
|STEREO

CARDIOID
|Used for stereo recording of live performances, ensembles, etc
|C
|
9V BAT

ONLY
|XLR OR 1/8"
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MCP
|[[File:Mcp.png|frameless]]
|CROWN

PZM
|HEMI-

SPHERICAL
|Used for recording multiple voices in a conference or meeting setting.
|PZM
|48V OR 2X9V BAT
|XLR
|50HZ-15KHZ

VARIES
|-
|MCS
|[[File:Mcs.png|frameless]]
|STUDIO

PROJECTS

C4
|CARDIOID AND OMNI CAPSULES
|Small diaphragm condenser. Used for overhead or stereo recording of instruments or ensembles.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MED
|[[File:Med.png|frameless]]
|ELECTRO

VOICE (EV)

635A
|OMNI
|
A live interview microphone designed to eliminate plosives and other proximity effects.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-13KHZ
|-
|MEG
|[[File:Meg.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-16
|SUPERCARDIOID
|
Excellent for podium use where high intelligibility is important.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MEJ
|[[File:Mej.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-15
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Used for broadcasting and instrument recordings. Also used to mic speaker cabinets.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MEM
|[[File:Mem.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-55
|OMNI
|Handheld vocal use for interviews or recording of orchestras etc.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MEO
|[[File:Meo.png|frameless]]
|EV CS-15
|CARDIOID, OMNI CAPSULES
|Increased bass response at close proximities. Handheld vocal use.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MEP
|[[File:Mep.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-20
|CARDIOID
|Very popular vocal recording mic, used extensively in broadcasting.
|D
|
|XLR
|45HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MER
|[[File:Mer.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-18
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Designed to reduce microphone handling noise. Used for spoken word/announcing.
|D
|||XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MES
|[[File:Mes.png|frameless]]
|EV 408B
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Instrument mic, used mostly on instruments with high SPL, drums, horns, etc.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-19KHZ
|-
|MET
|[[File:Met.png|frameless]]
|EV 308B
|CARDIOID
|Slightly less directional version of the 408b. Instrument mic.
|D
|
|XLR
|45HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MEW
|[[File:Mew.png|frameless]]
|EARTH

WORKS

TC 20
|OMNI
|Reference flat microphone, 150db SPL rating, used for calibration or for very loud instruments/sound effects
|C
|48V
|XLR
|10HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MFH
|[[File:Mfh.png|frameless]]
|CASCADE

FATHEAD
|FIGURE 8
|Used for mid-side pickup, and on instruments and vocals.
|RIBBON
|NO
|XLR
|60HZ-8KHZ
|-
|MHA
|[[File:Mha.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM58
|CARDIOID
|
Suitable for vocal use in live performance, sound reinforcement, and studio recording.
|D
|
|XLR
|50HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MHB
|[[File:Mhb.png|frameless]]
|SHURE

BETA

87A
|SUPERCARDIOD
|Hand held vocal mic

good feedback rejection
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHD
|[[File:Mhd.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM53
|CARDIOID
|Vintage hand held vocal mic, designed for low proximity effect.
|D
|
|XLR
|70HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MHE
|[[File:Mhe.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM57
|CARDIOID
|good for live sound reinforcement, instruments and vocals. bright, clean sound.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MHF
|[[File:Mhf.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM81
|CARDIOID
|Used on instruments, popular for pianos.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHG
|[[File:Mhg.png|frameless]]
|SHURE VP88
|CARDIOID,

FIGURE 8
|Stereo recording mic used in broadcasting.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHK
|[[File:Mhk.png|frameless]]
|SHURE KSM32
|CARDIOID
|General purpose condenser mic, useable for vocals/instruments etc. equipped with -15db and low cut switches.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHM
|[[File:Mhm.png|frameless]]
|SHURE KSM137
|CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm condenser designed for instruments.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHS
|[[File:Mhs.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM7B
|CARDIOID
|Shure’s response to the EV RE-20, a popular broadcasting vocal mic.
|D
|
|XLR
|50HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MEF
|[[File:BETA52A.JPG|frameless|155x155px]]
|SHURE BETA 52A
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Supercardioid specifically for kick drums
|D
|
|XLR
|20HZ-
10KHZ
|-
|MML
|[[File:Mml.png|frameless]]
|MARSHAL

MXL2003
|CARDIOID
|General purpose condenser mic, useable on vocals, instruments, ensembles etc
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-23KHZ
|-
|MNA
|[[File:Mna.png|frameless]]
|SENNHEISER 421
|CARDIOID
|Vocal or instrument mic popular in studios
|D
|
|XLR
|30HZ-17KHZ
|-
|MKH
|[[File:MKH40.jpg|centre|frameless|152x152px]]
|SENNHEISER MKH 40
|CARDIOID
|The MKH 40 P 48 is a high frequency condenser microphone with an excellent frequency range.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-
20KHZ
|-
|MNC
|[[File:Mnc.png|frameless]]
|MNC CONDENSER COMBO KIT
|VARIOUS
|Useful for field recording, comes with various pickup patterns for versatility of recording.
|C
|48V OR AA
|XLR
|
|-
|MND
|[[File:Mnd.png|frameless]]
|SENNHEISER 441
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Vocal and instrument mic equipped with a 5 position bass roll off switch and a treble boost switch
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MNE
|[[File:Mne.png|frameless]]
|DR.NORMAR'S BINAURAL HEAD
(MKE 2002)
|OMNI
|Sennheiser binaural microphone pair, for recording a 3d stereo field for playback over headphones.
|C
|9V ONLY
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MOF
|[[File:Mof.png|frameless]]
|SONY ECM50
|OMNI
|Vintage lavalier vocal mic
|C
|48V

OR E90

BAT
|XLR
|40HZ-14KHZ
|-
|MOH
|[[File:Moh.png|frameless]]
|SONY ECM22P
|CARDIOID
|Instrument/vocal mic, can use external phantom power or battery power between 3.7 and 9 volts
|C
|206 BAT OR

48V
|XLR
|40HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MPP
|[[File:Mpp.png|frameless]]
|PACIFIC PRO LD1
|CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm condenser, used for vocals, instruments, ensembles etc
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MRB
|[[File:Mrb.png|frameless]]
|BEYER M160
|HYPERCARDIOID
|Designed for instruments, popular on strings.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MRC
|[[File:Mrc.png|frameless]]
|COLES 4038
|FIGURE 8
|Vocal/instrument mic, popular with BBC broadcasting and recording studios.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|30HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MRR
|[[File:Mrr.png|frameless]]
|RCA 77DX
|VARIOUS
|Vintage ribbon mic, featuring cardioid, omni, and figure 8 polar patterns. Popular in broadcasting for vocals.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MRY
|[[File:Mry.png|frameless|100x100px]]
|ROYER R121
|FIGURE 8
|High quality ribbon instrument mic.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MTS
|[[File:Mts.png|frameless|110x110px]]
|CHAMELEON LABS TS-1
|OMNI,
CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm tube mic, used primarily on instruments
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MTS2
|[[File:Mts2.png|frameless|100x100px]]
|CHAMELEON LABS TS-2
|VARIOUS
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used primarily on vocals.
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MSV
|[[File:Msv.png|frameless]]
|SE ELECTRONICS SE 5000
|
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used on vocals
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|
|-
|MSZ
|[[File:Msz.png|frameless]]
|SE ELECTRONICS SE 5600
|
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used on vocals
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|
|}

[[Category:Media Loan]]

File:BETA52A.JPG

2018-09-06T19:20:16Z

Cornelle:

Microphones in Audio Studio

2018-09-06T19:19:48Z

Cornelle:

Audio is a subjective field. Use your ears and good judgement to find out which mics you like for the different applications. The only thing that is not subjective is the fact that both ribbon and condenser microphones are more delicate and sensitive than dynamics, and thus easier to damage if treated carelessly or used to mic kick drums.
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center; background: Lavender;"
|-
! TESC SKU !! Image !! Brand/Model !! Pattern !! Usage !! Dynamic / Condenser !! Battery Type!! Connection !! More details
|-
|MAA||[[File:Maa.png|frameless]]||AKG D202E
|CARDIOID
|Designed to eliminate proximity effect, very flat frequency response.
|D
|||XLR
||30HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MAB
|[[File:Mab.png|frameless]]
|AKG D224E
|CARDIOID
|Designed to handle high SPL, good midrange,
-20db rear attenuation at all freqs
|D
|||XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAE
|[[File:Mae.png|frameless]]
|AKG 460B
|CARDIOID
|Low self-noise. Equipped with low cut filters or 10db pad.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAF
|[[File:Maf.png|frameless]]
|AKG D112
|CARDIOID
|Used primarily on kick drums. Handles high SPL.
|D
|||XLR
|20HZ-17KHZ
|-
|MAH
|[[File:Mah.png|frameless]]
|AKG C414
|VARIOUS
|Large diaphragm condenser.

Used on instruments
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAN
|[[File:Man.png|frameless]]
|ASTON

ORIGIN
|CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm condenser. Used on instruments and vocals
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAV
|[[File:Mav.png|frameless]]
|AUDIO

TECHNICA

4060
|CARDIOID
|Vacuum tube condenser. Used on vocals, instruments and amps.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MBN
|[[File:Mbn.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

KM-84
|CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm FET condenser. Used for drum overheads and on hi-hats
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MBO
|[[File:Mbo.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

U87
|VARIOUS
|Used for vocals. has low cut, 10db pad, and omni, cardioid, and figure 8 pickup switches
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MPB
|[[File:Mbp.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

KM-83
|OMIN
|The Omnidirectional equivalent of the km-84.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MBQ
|[[File:Mpq.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

U47

(FET)
|HYPER

CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm FET condenser. Good for studio vocals.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MCK
|[[File:Mck.png|frameless]]
|AVANTONE

CK-40
|STEREO

VARIOUS
|Stereo condenser with adjustable pickup patterns and swiveling capsule. Good for recording a room or in a figure 8 pattern.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MCNT
|[[File:Mcnt.png|frameless]]
|RODE NT4
|STEREO

CARDIOID
|Used for stereo recording of live performances, ensembles, etc
|C
|
9V BAT

ONLY
|XLR OR 1/8"
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MCP
|[[File:Mcp.png|frameless]]
|CROWN

PZM
|HEMI-

SPHERICAL
|Used for recording multiple voices in a conference or meeting setting.
|PZM
|48V OR 2X9V BAT
|XLR
|50HZ-15KHZ

VARIES
|-
|MCS
|[[File:Mcs.png|frameless]]
|STUDIO

PROJECTS

C4
|CARDIOID AND OMNI CAPSULES
|Small diaphragm condenser. Used for overhead or stereo recording of instruments or ensembles.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MED
|[[File:Med.png|frameless]]
|ELECTRO

VOICE (EV)

635A
|OMNI
|
A live interview microphone designed to eliminate plosives and other proximity effects.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-13KHZ
|-
|MEG
|[[File:Meg.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-16
|SUPERCARDIOID
|
Excellent for podium use where high intelligibility is important.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MEJ
|[[File:Mej.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-15
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Used for broadcasting and instrument recordings. Also used to mic speaker cabinets.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MEM
|[[File:Mem.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-55
|OMNI
|Handheld vocal use for interviews or recording of orchestras etc.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MEO
|[[File:Meo.png|frameless]]
|EV CS-15
|CARDIOID, OMNI CAPSULES
|Increased bass response at close proximities. Handheld vocal use.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MEP
|[[File:Mep.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-20
|CARDIOID
|Very popular vocal recording mic, used extensively in broadcasting.
|D
|
|XLR
|45HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MER
|[[File:Mer.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-18
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Designed to reduce microphone handling noise. Used for spoken word/announcing.
|D
|||XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MES
|[[File:Mes.png|frameless]]
|EV 408B
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Instrument mic, used mostly on instruments with high SPL, drums, horns, etc.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-19KHZ
|-
|MET
|[[File:Met.png|frameless]]
|EV 308B
|CARDIOID
|Slightly less directional version of the 408b. Instrument mic.
|D
|
|XLR
|45HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MEW
|[[File:Mew.png|frameless]]
|EARTH

WORKS

TC 20
|OMNI
|Reference flat microphone, 150db SPL rating, used for calibration or for very loud instruments/sound effects
|C
|48V
|XLR
|10HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MFH
|[[File:Mfh.png|frameless]]
|CASCADE

FATHEAD
|FIGURE 8
|Used for mid-side pickup, and on instruments and vocals.
|RIBBON
|NO
|XLR
|60HZ-8KHZ
|-
|MHA
|[[File:Mha.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM58
|CARDIOID
|
Suitable for vocal use in live performance, sound reinforcement, and studio recording.
|D
|
|XLR
|50HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MHB
|[[File:Mhb.png|frameless]]
|SHURE

BETA

87A
|SUPERCARDIOD
|Hand held vocal mic

good feedback rejection
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHD
|[[File:Mhd.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM53
|CARDIOID
|Vintage hand held vocal mic, designed for low proximity effect.
|D
|
|XLR
|70HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MHE
|[[File:Mhe.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM57
|CARDIOID
|good for live sound reinforcement, instruments and vocals. bright, clean sound.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MHF
|[[File:Mhf.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM81
|CARDIOID
|Used on instruments, popular for pianos.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHG
|[[File:Mhg.png|frameless]]
|SHURE VP88
|CARDIOID,

FIGURE 8
|Stereo recording mic used in broadcasting.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHK
|[[File:Mhk.png|frameless]]
|SHURE KSM32
|CARDIOID
|General purpose condenser mic, useable for vocals/instruments etc. equipped with -15db and low cut switches.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHM
|[[File:Mhm.png|frameless]]
|SHURE KSM137
|CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm condenser designed for instruments.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHS
|[[File:Mhs.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM7B
|CARDIOID
|Shure’s response to the EV RE-20, a popular broadcasting vocal mic.
|D
|
|XLR
|50HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MML
|[[File:Mml.png|frameless]]
|MARSHAL

MXL2003
|CARDIOID
|General purpose condenser mic, useable on vocals, instruments, ensembles etc
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-23KHZ
|-
|MNA
|[[File:Mna.png|frameless]]
|SENNHEISER 421
|CARDIOID
|Vocal or instrument mic popular in studios
|D
|
|XLR
|30HZ-17KHZ
|-
|MKH
|[[File:MKH40.jpg|centre|frameless|152x152px]]
|SENNHEISER MKH 40
|CARDIOID
|The MKH 40 P 48 is a high frequency condenser microphone with an excellent frequency range.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-
20KHZ
|-
|MNC
|[[File:Mnc.png|frameless]]
|MNC CONDENSER COMBO KIT
|VARIOUS
|Useful for field recording, comes with various pickup patterns for versatility of recording.
|C
|48V OR AA
|XLR
|
|-
|MND
|[[File:Mnd.png|frameless]]
|SENNHEISER 441
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Vocal and instrument mic equipped with a 5 position bass roll off switch and a treble boost switch
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MNE
|[[File:Mne.png|frameless]]
|DR.NORMAR'S BINAURAL HEAD
(MKE 2002)
|OMNI
|Sennheiser binaural microphone pair, for recording a 3d stereo field for playback over headphones.
|C
|9V ONLY
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MOF
|[[File:Mof.png|frameless]]
|SONY ECM50
|OMNI
|Vintage lavalier vocal mic
|C
|48V

OR E90

BAT
|XLR
|40HZ-14KHZ
|-
|MOH
|[[File:Moh.png|frameless]]
|SONY ECM22P
|CARDIOID
|Instrument/vocal mic, can use external phantom power or battery power between 3.7 and 9 volts
|C
|206 BAT OR

48V
|XLR
|40HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MPP
|[[File:Mpp.png|frameless]]
|PACIFIC PRO LD1
|CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm condenser, used for vocals, instruments, ensembles etc
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MRB
|[[File:Mrb.png|frameless]]
|BEYER M160
|HYPERCARDIOID
|Designed for instruments, popular on strings.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MRC
|[[File:Mrc.png|frameless]]
|COLES 4038
|FIGURE 8
|Vocal/instrument mic, popular with BBC broadcasting and recording studios.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|30HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MRR
|[[File:Mrr.png|frameless]]
|RCA 77DX
|VARIOUS
|Vintage ribbon mic, featuring cardioid, omni, and figure 8 polar patterns. Popular in broadcasting for vocals.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MRY
|[[File:Mry.png|frameless|100x100px]]
|ROYER R121
|FIGURE 8
|High quality ribbon instrument mic.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MTS
|[[File:Mts.png|frameless|110x110px]]
|CHAMELEON LABS TS-1
|OMNI,
CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm tube mic, used primarily on instruments
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MTS2
|[[File:Mts2.png|frameless|100x100px]]
|CHAMELEON LABS TS-2
|VARIOUS
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used primarily on vocals.
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MSV
|[[File:Msv.png|frameless]]
|SE ELECTRONICS SE 5000
|
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used on vocals
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|
|-
|MSZ
|[[File:Msz.png|frameless]]
|SE ELECTRONICS SE 5600
|
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used on vocals
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|
|}

[[Category:Media Loan]]

File:MKH40.jpg

2018-09-06T16:19:28Z

Cornelle:

File:P1010002.JPG

2018-09-06T16:17:59Z

Cornelle:

Microphones in Audio Studio

2018-09-06T16:14:29Z

Cornelle: ADDED NEW MIC TO WIKI LIST

Audio is a subjective field. Use your ears and good judgement to find out which mics you like for the different applications. The only thing that is not subjective is the fact that both ribbon and condenser microphones are more delicate and sensitive than dynamics, and thus easier to damage if treated carelessly or used to mic kick drums.
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center; background: Lavender;"
|-
! TESC SKU !! Image !! Brand/Model !! Pattern !! Usage !! Dynamic / Condenser !! Battery Type!! Connection !! More details
|-
|MAA||[[File:Maa.png|frameless]]||AKG D202E
|CARDIOID
|Designed to eliminate proximity effect, very flat frequency response.
|D
|||XLR
||30HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MAB
|[[File:Mab.png|frameless]]
|AKG D224E
|CARDIOID
|Designed to handle high SPL, good midrange,
-20db rear attenuation at all freqs
|D
|||XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAE
|[[File:Mae.png|frameless]]
|AKG 460B
|CARDIOID
|Low self-noise. Equipped with low cut filters or 10db pad.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAF
|[[File:Maf.png|frameless]]
|AKG D112
|CARDIOID
|Used primarily on kick drums. Handles high SPL.
|D
|||XLR
|20HZ-17KHZ
|-
|MAH
|[[File:Mah.png|frameless]]
|AKG C414
|VARIOUS
|Large diaphragm condenser.

Used on instruments
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAN
|[[File:Man.png|frameless]]
|ASTON

ORIGIN
|CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm condenser. Used on instruments and vocals
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MAV
|[[File:Mav.png|frameless]]
|AUDIO

TECHNICA

4060
|CARDIOID
|Vacuum tube condenser. Used on vocals, instruments and amps.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MBN
|[[File:Mbn.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

KM-84
|CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm FET condenser. Used for drum overheads and on hi-hats
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MBO
|[[File:Mbo.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

U87
|VARIOUS
|Used for vocals. has low cut, 10db pad, and omni, cardioid, and figure 8 pickup switches
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MPB
|[[File:Mbp.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

KM-83
|OMIN
|The Omnidirectional equivalent of the km-84.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MBQ
|[[File:Mpq.png|frameless]]
|NEUMANN

U47

(FET)
|HYPER

CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm FET condenser. Good for studio vocals.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MCK
|[[File:Mck.png|frameless]]
|AVANTONE

CK-40
|STEREO

VARIOUS
|Stereo condenser with adjustable pickup patterns and swiveling capsule. Good for recording a room or in a figure 8 pattern.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MCNT
|[[File:Mcnt.png|frameless]]
|RODE NT4
|STEREO

CARDIOID
|Used for stereo recording of live performances, ensembles, etc
|C
|
9V BAT

ONLY
|XLR OR 1/8"
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MCP
|[[File:Mcp.png|frameless]]
|CROWN

PZM
|HEMI-

SPHERICAL
|Used for recording multiple voices in a conference or meeting setting.
|PZM
|48V OR 2X9V BAT
|XLR
|50HZ-15KHZ

VARIES
|-
|MCS
|[[File:Mcs.png|frameless]]
|STUDIO

PROJECTS

C4
|CARDIOID AND OMNI CAPSULES
|Small diaphragm condenser. Used for overhead or stereo recording of instruments or ensembles.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MED
|[[File:Med.png|frameless]]
|ELECTRO

VOICE (EV)

635A
|OMNI
|
A live interview microphone designed to eliminate plosives and other proximity effects.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-13KHZ
|-
|MEG
|[[File:Meg.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-16
|SUPERCARDIOID
|
Excellent for podium use where high intelligibility is important.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MEJ
|[[File:Mej.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-15
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Used for broadcasting and instrument recordings. Also used to mic speaker cabinets.
|D
|
|XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MEM
|[[File:Mem.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-55
|OMNI
|Handheld vocal use for interviews or recording of orchestras etc.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MEO
|[[File:Meo.png|frameless]]
|EV CS-15
|CARDIOID, OMNI CAPSULES
|Increased bass response at close proximities. Handheld vocal use.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MEP
|[[File:Mep.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-20
|CARDIOID
|Very popular vocal recording mic, used extensively in broadcasting.
|D
|
|XLR
|45HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MER
|[[File:Mer.png|frameless]]
|EV RE-18
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Designed to reduce microphone handling noise. Used for spoken word/announcing.
|D
|||XLR
|80HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MES
|[[File:Mes.png|frameless]]
|EV 408B
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Instrument mic, used mostly on instruments with high SPL, drums, horns, etc.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-19KHZ
|-
|MET
|[[File:Met.png|frameless]]
|EV 308B
|CARDIOID
|Slightly less directional version of the 408b. Instrument mic.
|D
|
|XLR
|45HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MEW
|[[File:Mew.png|frameless]]
|EARTH

WORKS

TC 20
|OMNI
|Reference flat microphone, 150db SPL rating, used for calibration or for very loud instruments/sound effects
|C
|48V
|XLR
|10HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MFH
|[[File:Mfh.png|frameless]]
|CASCADE

FATHEAD
|FIGURE 8
|Used for mid-side pickup, and on instruments and vocals.
|RIBBON
|NO
|XLR
|60HZ-8KHZ
|-
|MHA
|[[File:Mha.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM58
|CARDIOID
|
Suitable for vocal use in live performance, sound reinforcement, and studio recording.
|D
|
|XLR
|50HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MHB
|[[File:Mhb.png|frameless]]
|SHURE

BETA

87A
|SUPERCARDIOD
|Hand held vocal mic

good feedback rejection
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHD
|[[File:Mhd.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM53
|CARDIOID
|Vintage hand held vocal mic, designed for low proximity effect.
|D
|
|XLR
|70HZ-16KHZ
|-
|MHE
|[[File:Mhe.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM57
|CARDIOID
|good for live sound reinforcement, instruments and vocals. bright, clean sound.
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MHF
|[[File:Mhf.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM81
|CARDIOID
|Used on instruments, popular for pianos.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHG
|[[File:Mhg.png|frameless]]
|SHURE VP88
|CARDIOID,

FIGURE 8
|Stereo recording mic used in broadcasting.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHK
|[[File:Mhk.png|frameless]]
|SHURE KSM32
|CARDIOID
|General purpose condenser mic, useable for vocals/instruments etc. equipped with -15db and low cut switches.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHM
|[[File:Mhm.png|frameless]]
|SHURE KSM137
|CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm condenser designed for instruments.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MHS
|[[File:Mhs.png|frameless]]
|SHURE SM7B
|CARDIOID
|Shure’s response to the EV RE-20, a popular broadcasting vocal mic.
|D
|
|XLR
|50HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MML
|[[File:Mml.png|frameless]]
|MARSHAL

MXL2003
|CARDIOID
|General purpose condenser mic, useable on vocals, instruments, ensembles etc
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-23KHZ
|-
|MNA
|[[File:Mna.png|frameless]]
|SENNHEISER 421
|CARDIOID
|Vocal or instrument mic popular in studios
|D
|
|XLR
|30HZ-17KHZ
|-
|MKH
|
|SENNHEISER MKH 40
|CARDIOID
|The MKH 40 P 48 is a high frequency condenser microphone with an excellent frequency range.
|C
|48V
|XLR
|40HZ-
20KHZ
|-
|MNC
|[[File:Mnc.png|frameless]]
|MNC CONDENSER COMBO KIT
|VARIOUS
|Useful for field recording, comes with various pickup patterns for versatility of recording.
|C
|48V OR AA
|XLR
|
|-
|MND
|[[File:Mnd.png|frameless]]
|SENNHEISER 441
|SUPERCARDIOID
|Vocal and instrument mic equipped with a 5 position bass roll off switch and a treble boost switch
|D
|
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MNE
|[[File:Mne.png|frameless]]
|DR.NORMAR'S BINAURAL HEAD
(MKE 2002)
|OMNI
|Sennheiser binaural microphone pair, for recording a 3d stereo field for playback over headphones.
|C
|9V ONLY
|XLR
|40HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MOF
|[[File:Mof.png|frameless]]
|SONY ECM50
|OMNI
|Vintage lavalier vocal mic
|C
|48V

OR E90

BAT
|XLR
|40HZ-14KHZ
|-
|MOH
|[[File:Moh.png|frameless]]
|SONY ECM22P
|CARDIOID
|Instrument/vocal mic, can use external phantom power or battery power between 3.7 and 9 volts
|C
|206 BAT OR

48V
|XLR
|40HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MPP
|[[File:Mpp.png|frameless]]
|PACIFIC PRO LD1
|CARDIOID
|Large diaphragm condenser, used for vocals, instruments, ensembles etc
|C
|48V
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MRB
|[[File:Mrb.png|frameless]]
|BEYER M160
|HYPERCARDIOID
|Designed for instruments, popular on strings.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MRC
|[[File:Mrc.png|frameless]]
|COLES 4038
|FIGURE 8
|Vocal/instrument mic, popular with BBC broadcasting and recording studios.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|30HZ-15KHZ
|-
|MRR
|[[File:Mrr.png|frameless]]
|RCA 77DX
|VARIOUS
|Vintage ribbon mic, featuring cardioid, omni, and figure 8 polar patterns. Popular in broadcasting for vocals.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MRY
|[[File:Mry.png|frameless|100x100px]]
|ROYER R121
|FIGURE 8
|High quality ribbon instrument mic.
|RIBBON
|
|XLR
|40HZ-18KHZ
|-
|MTS
|[[File:Mts.png|frameless|110x110px]]
|CHAMELEON LABS TS-1
|OMNI,
CARDIOID
|Small diaphragm tube mic, used primarily on instruments
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MTS2
|[[File:Mts2.png|frameless|100x100px]]
|CHAMELEON LABS TS-2
|VARIOUS
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used primarily on vocals.
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|20HZ-20KHZ
|-
|MSV
|[[File:Msv.png|frameless]]
|SE ELECTRONICS SE 5000
|
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used on vocals
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|
|-
|MSZ
|[[File:Msz.png|frameless]]
|SE ELECTRONICS SE 5600
|
|Large diaphragm tube condenser, used on vocals
|C
|EXT
|XLR
|
|}

[[Category:Media Loan]]